Fisher paint

[blowin smoke]

I have to touch up some of the paint on my plow. Where can you get paint besides a fisher dealer. and what type of paint would you use. Thank Jay

[King of Diamonds]

Hi

Take a piece of the flaking paint down to a True Value store they can scan the color and tint some X-Rusto paint to match your existing paint.

[john mc]

The Napa auto parts here in town has S.A.M.s paint with yellow looks its a match good for fisher yellow.

[blowin smoke]

Thanks guys I will have to check out these options.. Jason

[mikelawtown]

I have kept this secret with me awhile and feel the need to share with others ..If you want a 99% close match to fisher go to your local ACE hardware store and get the solvent-based MARKING PAINT.APWA HI VISIBILITY YELLOW..7.99 a can...Secret is out now and i feel better already..good luck

[dumptrucker]

Rust Oleum sunset yellow is an almost dead on match for fisher yellow.

[NorwayAuto&Plow]

Why are you looking for an alternative to fisher? You can get pints/gallons of fisher paint and for touch up you can get shakers (spray cans).

I restore alot of plows and fisher by the gallon is kinda pricey so i spray a close yellow down first from a cheap company then spray the fisher paint over that. Looks awsome and still afordable.

[mikelawtown]

Isnt the 1st coat important?I primed mine and used the marking paint, 2 yrs and like new

[NorwayAuto&Plow]

oh yea... definetly dont forget the primer.
Here are my steps...

1. wash
2. use scrapper to take loose paint off
3. Needle scale rust bubbles
4. grind rust spots
5. put a scratch layer of fiberglass over grinded areas
6. ruff up rest of plow with scotch brite bad
7. wax and grease remover (prep all)
8. primer
9. safety yellow
10. fisher yellow
11. fisher splatter
12. clear coat
After that you i sometimes wax the plow so no snow sticks and if you really want to be picky you can wet sand and buff it but its a plow so i usually skip the buffing!

*Fisher paint requires alot of stiring and mixing so have a cordless drill with paint stirer atatchment or take it to a paint store for shaking.

AND DO IT ALL IN A WELL VENTALATED AREA!!!!

[John Banks]

Originally Posted by NorwayAuto&Plow

oh yea... definetly dont forget the primer.
Here are my steps...

5. put a scratch layer of fiberglass over grinded areas

I've never heard of doing this before - what's the purpose? Are you patching holes?

[mikelawtown]

I also put rain X on the plow a few times during the winter. Or just put the rain x or rain off washer fluid in a bottle and spray it on..works wonders

[NorwayAuto&Plow]

on spots where the paint has peeled off and rust has formed... the steal is pitted and a scratch layer of fiber glass (similar to bondo but stronger) fills in the pits. Over all it just makes the plow look smoother. If there is a hole... i weld it and then grind the metal as flat as possible then the fiber glass takes car of the rest. Itskinda over doing it but it helps the plows sell for me!

[stargazer]

NorwayAuto&Plow, sounds interesting, never thought of that. Are you using polyester or epoxy resin, plain or with fiberglass mat or cloth? Any problems with it peeling?

For years I have been using napa cross/fire body paint from martin senour over primer on the bare areas. Mainly because it dries fast even in cold weather. Also looks good and glossy when new. But I'd like something harder.I just picked some up yesterday, didn't have to order it mixed, they had a batch all mixed in quarts -fisher yellow- because they sell a lot of it each year.

I had bad luck with fisher spray cans -not enough pigment - like a cheap paint. Maybe they have fixed the problem, that was 12 years ago.

Nothing lasts the season because I plow almost exclusively on gravel roads (sand paper, very coarse). I try to get on as many coats as I can stand to do and sometimes add another during a thaw.

Still get down to bare metal at the outside ends. Waxing etc. useless in my situation so I use the boaters trick - sort of an ablative paint solution. Preventing rust and a smooth surface is imperative, thats why your fiberglass to smooth imperfections sounds interesting.

I've been using zinc rich primer with the idea that the zinc is sacrificial. Would self etching be better? Never tried it.

Last year I was ready to toss my carbon steel sander spinner but tried spraying it with cold galvanizing compound using the sacrificial zinc idea. It worked much better than paint. Just bought more at napa as I'm preparing the sander. Going to use the old spinner again, though I wonder if stainless might throw better due to smoothness. Maybe I should try fiberglassing it!

[Basher]

Originally Posted by stargazer

Nothing lasts the season because I plow almost exclusively on gravel roads (sand paper, very coarse). I try to get on as many coats as I can stand to do and sometimes add another during a thaw.
!

Try "evercoat" if you don't want to use fiberglass, seems to hold up very well.

As for a paint, try a base coat of POR-15, it's readly available over the web. Caustic stuff use outside or with resperator on but it's is incredibly tough and stops rust.

[Pickering Snow]

Marglass is the only thing thats gonna hold up for any length of time if the ratios are too high with filler it will just bubble and pop off . Pure Fiberglass resisn and matt need to be protected or the same results has filler will occur.

Jay King of Diamonds posted the way we do plows if you follow those guide lines you will end up with a nice job, he and i both have ran body shops for a number of years.

[NorwayAuto&Plow]

If you redue your plow every year then maybe you should consider powder coating it. They spray the the powder onto and electircly charged part then bake it at 350 degrees. Thats what the storm guard is on the newer fishers.

For the fiberglass... I use USC feather-lite filler. Its all paste like material and you add a white hardener (any color will work but you can mix better with white). I have only started using this product and method this summer so im not sure how it will take the snow. We use it on the inner wheel wells of vehicles when holes form and it seems to hold up on there.

It does have a nasty stentch to it so if you dont like getting light headed i would use atleast a nusence mask.... I use a 3m charcol resperator.

[stargazer]

Originally Posted by Basher

.As for a paint, try a base coat of POR-15, it's readly available over the web. Caustic stuff use outside or with resperator on but it's is incredibly tough and stops rust.

Googled POR-15 and it looks good, except I don't want to get down to bare metal on the whole surface of the plow. They make another paint called "hardnose" that is suitable for painted surfaces, may try that in future.

I already have 3 coats of my usual napa body paint which always looks glossy and good to start out.

Norway, I agree that the fisher powder coat is the best I've had on my plows but it still wears off plowing gravel, especially on the outside ends. Afraid to try your fiberglass idea on my plows where function is critical and usage is exteme. May try it on my sander spinner which I don't care about and which doesn't get the pressure the plow gets.

[NorwayAuto&Plow]

You can use bondo too but wont be as strong but bondo is half the cost. Just put it on the back of the blade. No function there except the braces for the face.

If you are going to paint the whole thing i would atleast use a spray gun. Get a gun and set it to 30 psi and reduce the paint to whatever it recommends but if there arent any directions just go 2:1.

Shakers (paint cans) just aren't able to put on an even coat and it looks horrible!!!