Oil Pan Siggestions?...

[John Banks]

Hi guys, y'all remember my post back some months ago about the rusting oil pan on my '01 F550. While my 5yr/100k warranty specifically states the oil pan is covered, the dealer says that Ford won't cover it's replacement, even though it was rusting. Jumping ahead to this past week. I have a couple of people interested in buying the truck, it was time for an oil change so I changed it. It sat overnight and when I came out the next morning I noticed it was leaking oil. I traced it back to a tiny pinhole in the side of the pan, about an inch up from the bottom. I drained the fresh oil, degreased the pan, primed it, all using the POR-15 kit. I used JB Weld (Waterweld) to patch the tiny hole and let it sit for awhile to cure. Temps were colder last week, in the 50's and I did this all outside. I then finish coated everything with 3 coats of the POR-15. I let it sit for another couple of days, filled it with oil and it still leaks. Not as bad now, but it's leaking from 2 spots in the seam of the JB Weld.

Short of stripping it all down and starting over, any ideas on what I can use to stop the leak? Silicone, undercoating, high-temp spray gasket adhesive, piece of bubble gum, anything? Obviously it has to be heat and oil resistant. This is so frustrating! :headwall

Thanks

[Newtownsnowplower]

I have found nothing that will stop the leaking. I have done those oil pans and they are a pain. What dealer. I know that the Colonial Ford in Danbury is honoring those warranties. I know that they just recently did a 95 yes a 95 F350 and a 00 F550 (I think). PM me and I can give you more info that maybe helpful in getting it done.

From what I have been told the warranty payback from Ford for this job is beneficial for the dealers. In other words they can do them faster then Ford allots leaving them with a small profit per job. Can't understand why a dealer would turn it down.

[Pelican]

John, get a gas tank repair kit from the auto parts store. It's an epoxy type adhesive with fiberglass mesh. Clean the pan again, you must remove the patch and primer you already applied. Degrease again with brake parts cleaner, then apply the patch directly to the rusted area according to the packet instructions. Be sure to have everything ready to go as the chemical reaction takes place pretty quickly and it will set up fast. I used this method on my 550 and it held me for a month until the pan was replaced.

I would continue to fight to have the pan replaced. Try another dealer or the 800 number in your owner's manual. I had one dealer try to tell me that the pan wasn't covered because I had a salt truck, I asked the service manual to show me where it stated in the warranty the salt trucks were excluded. I made a pretty big stink with him and got my pan covered under the full warranty.

[John Banks]

Thanks guys. Newtown, I just pm'd you.

Steve, I think it comes down to the dealer here doesn't have a diesel tech to pull the motor, but I could be wrong. It's warranty work, so I can't understand why they don't want to do it otherwise.

When yours was done, any issues with pulling the motor? Everything functions fine I gather...

[Pelican]

Actually the truck has been back to the dealer for 3 weeks now, the new pan leaked worse than the old one, they screwed up the front cover gasket. You know the trouble I've had with getting work done on my trucks!

I had a '97 350 that the pan was replaced on and that job went fine. I had no other issues after it was replaced.

[John Banks]

Sorry to hear that Steve. That's what I'm concerned about, getting it back in worse condition. Especially since the pan gasket is fine now, I'd hate to have that same problem after.

I thought about cutting out the lower section and the tig welding in a new piece. Since the new pans are only about $100, I could the lower section off a new one and tig it to the existing one.

[Garagekeeper]

John find some one that's good with a soldering iron, after the area is cleaned and tinned they should be able to make a nice smooth and lasting flame free repair.
Or you could do it yourself but your going to need a HD soldering gun or iron, some paste flux and solder, plumbers solder works great and you can get a good coverage and tin's the metal up easily.
If you try to do it don't get under the work area with your face, arms, legs etc as the dripping solder will burn you like you have never been burned before.
:rolleyes: John...

[Pickering Snow]

John and Steves advice both work i have fixed several pans with the gas tank repair kit steve mentioned two of my plow trucks our going on three years the stuff works great, but like Steve said have your work ready the epoxy sets fast once mixed.

[John Banks]

Thanks Fred, I'm going to give it a whirl, especially after the conversations I had with two stealers today. Both said that Ford will not warranty a rust(ed) through oil pan. If it were cracked they would though :confused: They referred to some letter they rec'd from Ford saying no more. Nice. They gave me the 800# to call, like that's gonna do any good. One of the dealers said it's because these trucks are used primarily for plowing and with the salt it eats the pans. I said then explain to me how my F250 has more than 2X as many miles and has plowed longer than the 550, yet the gasser oil pan is spotless. So I guess he was trying to say you shouldn't plow, at least when there's salt present. I'm tired of this BS ! I had an idea, we should all pool together, build a bullet proof plow rig/work truck and sell them to people that need something that will last. If something goes wrong, we fix it, no questions asked (as long as it wasn't abused). What a novelty...

[Pelican]

John, I'd go in there screaming about that pan. They have to honor the warranty that was in place when you bought the truck. If necessary, see if your attorney will type you a letter reminding them of that. I've got an address for the director of the Truck Division that I'll post tonight on that other thread I've got running. Maybe we can all flood this guy with letters and get some attention.

[DEN]

We applied epoxy to the lower 6" of the pan on our chevy salt truck and it still appears perfect after 2 seasons. Prep is the key. Poly-urea would be the ultimate if you could find someone to apply it.

[John Banks]

Thanks, the epoxy isn't even working. It's better than it was but still has a slight leak. Like you I've done the entire bottom of the pan going up about 6 inches. I'm replacing the pan, truck goes in next wednesday. You'll all know exactly when because I'll be the guy squeelin' so loud y'all be sure to hear me.

[Ecurb]

As a side note that gas tank sealer kit is a great thing to keep in the glove box I have fixed lots of leaking gas tanks oil pans and other stuff with it....its good stuff.
Poked a hole in a radiator one nite and used that stuff and in 1/2 hour was back plowing....left the cap loose for a bout and hour but it worked great.