@#%*ing Dodge transmissions!

[Roger Dodger]

47RE transmission maintained by the dealer as per DC's schedule.

Been working just fine all along until yesterday. The truck is idling in PARK for about 15 minutes in 90°+ heat. I take off and the engine is revving to 3000 rpm and it won't shift out of 1st gear. REVERSE appears to be normal. Luckily I'm just a few blocks from home. Hours later when the temps outside subside, I try it again and get the same results ... lots of slippage in 1st, no 2nd or 3rd, but REVERSE seems normal. Checked fluid and it doesn't smell or look burnt, but it has some tiny bubbles to it. I don't suspect a speed sensor problem and no codes have been registered since no service light is on. And the transmission warning light isn't on as well. Any ideas what's failed in this transmission?

Right now, I'd like to go off on a rant in favor of a Chevy Duramax w/ Allison, but will refrain since this is the Dodge forum. At least the 7/70 powertrain warranty is in effect.

[wyldman]

Have it checked for codes,and they can also look at the data while it's on the scanner.

Sounds like you may have an internal leak,or maybe the gov solenoid or pressure transducer is bad.They can also become plugged with clutch fuzz.

Some good diagnosis with a pressure gauge would help.Try to find a reputable trans shop who knows what to look for,and will spend the time to diagnose it without selling you a rebuild.

EDIT - just noticed you have powetrain warranty still in effect,so let the dealer worry about it.

[Roger Dodger]

EDIT - just noticed you have powertrain warranty still in effect,so let the dealer worry about it.
That's where I just came from and the speed sensor is suspect, but they aren't ruling out the transm. Apparently the spedo doesn't move when the speed sensor fails (?) according to the tow truck operator. I didn't get to notice that since the tachometer was getting my attention ... showing 3k rpm while only moving 15mph. If it's the sensor, I'm gonna have them do the transmission's full fluid exchange as well, since it's due for it come Oct/Nov. They're also gonna go over the front end/steering to assure everything's in order for plow season.

[T-Zab]

@#%*ing Dodge transmissions!

Hey shouldn't this be in the Ford section LOL.
Todd

[Lawngodfather]

Hey shouldn't this be in the Ford section LOL.
Todd
Dodge will actually fix it......

[Roger Dodger]

It's a faulty governor pressure sensor inside the transmission, whatever that part does. Dealer claims it's a $400 repair and the powertrain warranty covers all but $100 deductible. Not too keen about forking out $100 but that's a pittence for a transmission repair these days, so I guess. Dunno if that failed from anything I might have done (can't think of any abnormal situation) or if it just failed on its own. Great timing too since yesterday I just received a recall notice from DC on vapor canister purge hoses w/ my VIN # as being one that's affected. Dealer caught that too on their 'puter and will make the repairs.

[wyldman]

The Dodge auto's are very simple.Basically a hydraulically controlled 727,with the OD added.The only electronics are used to control govenor pressure,which allows them to partially control shift points.Most other trannies are totally electronic.

The computer monitors the govenor pressure transducer,to see what the actual pressure is,and uses a govenor pressure solenoid to control it.It sends a duty cycle voltage (pulsed voltage) to the gov soenoid to vary the pressure as needed.Because it's always buzzing away,it will eventually wear out.The other thing that kills them is clutch fuzz\debris.The passages are so small they get easily plugged.There is a small screen on it,and you can easily remove and clean it,which may help.I do it now as part of a regular trans service.

If they are going to do the trans service,make sure they get all the fluid out.Loosening a few valve body bolts will get most of it.They should reduce the price too,as the warranty repair will cover most of the labour,and some of the fluid.Get an older style felt style filter (from a 47RH),and have them install it.It will do a better job of filtering,and it's much cheaper.The OEM filter is just a reuseable screen,so don't let thme hose you by replacing it.You shouldn't need a gasket either,it's reuseable.If not,then the warranty repair should cover the gasket as they had to pull the pan.

Glad to hear it's an easy fix,and hopefully you have it back soon.

[Roger Dodger]

So the 47RE is for the few electronics that's inside versus the RH which is all hydraulics? I knew the 47 was basically a 727 Torqueflight that was upgraded here and there to better handle the rigors of truck work. I think DC increased the diameter of the input shaft, for starters. I wish it was a 48RE but such isn't the case. :( I'm wondering about the bit I read on the web of taking an old Torqueflight pan and installing on the modern 47RE. It's been done on the 46 transm with success. It holds a bit more oil and doesn't require an extension on the dipstick tube as some aftermarket pans do.
If Johnny D is following this thread, maybe he can jump in and straighten me out on alternative pans for the 47RE that don't cost an arm & a leg.

As thorough as your comments are and as much as I'd like to see all that done in that fashion, I'm dealing with a warranty repair and we know how those work! They replaced both gov. solenoid and sensor, gasket, 7 qts fluid, and a couple of other minor items. The upsetting part was the mechanic entered the wrong odometer mileage and it cost me about 45 minutes to have it straightened out so future warranty service wouldn't be voided. He entered 90,200mi instead of 40,200mi. The mechanic did make written notations on the voltage readings/tests resultsomments, prolly for the warranty review process. That 7yr/100K powertrain warranty has a $100 co-pay and the fluid is covered is covered in the repair. In the end I only saved $100 but that's better than spending $200 and my hands are clean! :shades

I think he or someone drove it home for lunch since the paperwork lists 6 miles test drive, but the tripometer shows 11.8 !!! :fuming This happened to my wife long ago when a garage kept her car overnight for a simple state inspection (and to our surprise since we knew it would pass with flying colors) and the next day it had 58 miles on it. The back seat had food childrens candy/food wrappers left behind and the seat cover was disturbed and untucked. We brought it to the attention of the owner and he discounted the bill. We learned about a month later that mechanic was fired. He prolly continued that same behavior and then some to get his a$$ canned.

Chris- thanks for your input on this thread. I always appreciate your words of wisdom. You need to relocate closer to Jerre & me. We'll throw some business your way!

[wyldman]

Roger - any 727 pan will fit,they are the same.You can find some less expensive deep 727 pans out there,that will increase fluid capacity.You can also pick up a couple of spare stock pans,and have someone weld them together,to add volume.

If you want a real nice piece,then the Mag-Hytec DD pan is the way to go.Fairly pricey though.

[John DiMartino]

Rodger,I have always preached about leaving the 47RE/RHs in N when idling. Feel free to PM me if you need anything.

[Roger Dodger]

Rodger,I have always preached about leaving the 47RE/RHs in N when idling. Feel free to PM me if you need anything.
Well "Pastor D." this is one church goer that never heard your sermon! (lol) I gather that there's some benefit to leaving the motor idle in Neutral rather than Park? I'll keep that in mind from now on ... thanks for the tip. Dealer mechanic claims the part(s) simply failed and it was nothing I did ... that is "if" the mechanic does in deed know his stuff.

[wyldman]

Stock Dodge valve body does not allow cooler flow in P.It does in N.After a hard push,and the trans is hot,idling in P traps heat in the trans.

A cheap transgo shift kit is the way to go.Gives you cooler flow in P,boost pressures and shift points,and increases longetivity.

[BWhite]

Is the Neutral fluid flow apply to my new 5 speed auto ?

[wyldman]

I have heard about a few convertor drainback problems,which can be rectified by shifting to neutral before taking off.This may indicate it has a similar valve setup as the 47\48 series trans.

[John DiMartino]

LOl at you Rodger! Im glad its up and running. Bill ,Im not sure if the stock 5speed flows oil in park,I will look into it when i get some time.

[Roger Dodger]

Ya see, one can learn alot more than just snowplowing around here! :D

I've seen ready-to-go 46 RH/RE valve bodies w/ TransGo kit already installed, for sale from APS Precision (http://www.apsprecision.com/), but not for the 47 unless that's something in the works with them. Dunno if APS is a reputable outfit or not. Interesting to note they state the following:

These are remanufactured valve bodies that combine the TransGo Shift Kit, custom valves and springs, and all are ready to install (and calibrated) for your specific application. They are available with or without new sensors (O/D Solenoid Pack, Governor Pressure Sensor, Transducer). We highly recommend purchasing the new sensors as Chrysler has known issues with failing sensors on the newer transmissions.
APS uses the TransGo shift kit as the baseline, then applies their own modifications to compliment the excellent work done by Gil Younger and TransGo. TransGo has been around for over well over 20 years and has put a lot of time and money into the development of its Shift Kits. While it’s true some will say that a shift kit is nothing more then changing springs, drilling holes, changing or grinding valves...remember, that is all the valve body ever was. A valve body is nothing but a bunch of springs and valves with some electronic sensors thrown in today for good measure. The trick is knowing where and when to change the springs, modify the valves and how big to drill the holes. For automatics, crispness of shift is the interrelationship between the Speed of the Shift and the timing, something known as overlap, which is where one gear is releasing as another applies. Knowing how to minimize the effects of the overlap (which can cause the vehicle to actually slow down momentarily on the shift) vs. having the shift occur rapidly and using the engines power to propel the car further forward rather then fighting the applying and releasing gears. This is what APS has concentrated its efforts on.

Until my garage is finished, I'm in no position to be working on a vehicle other than change oil let alone install a shift kit, without even a workbench built yet!! For now, it would be convenient to simply buy a rebuilt valve body, install it and be done.

[wyldman]

Talk to John.I'm sure he could do you up a valve body,or get you a DTT valve body ready to bolt on.

The shift kit is easily installed by any trans shop,it should cost to much.Cheap insurance to keep the trans happy for many years to come.