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Snowboy
04-19-2005, 12:35 AM
This is a project I started already. A work in progress. Decided the plow wasnt worth getting blasted yet since the paint is fairly good and the sandman said powered coat is a *itch to get off. Might just touch up at the welds on the back of the moldboard but that might not look so good.

The bolts are so rusty they don’t want to come off with heat Wd-40 or an impact gun. I got fed up and took out the 4" grinder and went to town the other night. Took the jack stand off because that was pretty rusty the rest of the frame is good. Maybe a light sand and new paint on it. A few coats.

Fisher Fixup (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/grassmn2/album?.dir=bbc9&.src=ph&store=&prodid=&.done=http%3a//pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/grassmn2/my_photos)

Dave.

bud16415
04-19-2005, 05:33 AM
Prep………99%
Paint……….1%


Bud

Snowboy
04-19-2005, 07:01 AM
Tell me about it. Can you think of a better way to get off the rusted bolts other then cutting?

T-Zab
04-19-2005, 11:07 AM
A die grinder with a cut off wheel will work for you. Not as quick as the flame wrench but it works. They sell cheapo units and the cutoff wheels at NorthernTool ( One of Chucks sponsors top of page ). These are thin cutting wheels not like a grinder, they actually cut threw the nut or bolt. Work great for exhaust work too.

Todd

Snowboy
04-19-2005, 06:57 PM
A die grinder with a cut off wheel will work for you. Not as quick as the flame wrench but it works. They sell cheapo units and the cutoff wheels at NorthernTool ( One of Chucks sponsors top of page ). These are thin cutting wheels not like a grinder, they actually cut threw the nut or bolt. Work great for exhaust work too.

Todd

Thanks todd but to order from the USA get it here to canada and find out it dont work. I have something like that for my drill but it think a drill is too slow?
My compressor is not big enough to run a die grinder and i dont own a die grinder. I can squeak by running the torque rench but its stop go stop go.
Dave.

Pelican
04-19-2005, 08:41 PM
Just a note to anyone reading, T-Zab mentioned using a torch to cut the bolts, just be aware when using a torch on a powder coated product you risk exposure to very toxic fumes, use extreme care!

Pickering Snow
04-20-2005, 03:29 AM
Like Steve said torching power coat produces a ton of fumes and smoke i know alot of guys including myself that love to use plasma , not has much has my buddy in Erie lol but on a serious note i use a resporator for pretty much anything anymore years ago painting cars has a kid i would use nothing always thought it was cool to blow honkers the same color i just painted , but has i get older and having kids and with the great need to quit smoking i have tryed to be safer in the shop. Alot has to do know with comp laws and having the ness safty equipment aval for your employees.

On a another safty note when using a respiratior remember the bad stuff is suppose to stay on the outside read a article awhile back were kids using them to hold in fumes and stuff like mary jane.

bud16415
04-20-2005, 05:16 AM
Snowboy

Most guys in the business grab the torch first if it even looks like it’s going to be trouble. You are a bit more in my mode of doing things and not fully equipped for every job and end up doing what you have to do to get thru the task.
First off get rid of the WD40 for this task and get PB-Blaster or that type of penetrating oil made for rusted on nuts. Works much better. If time is not pushing you take a day or two and soak them good a few times. Then get an mpact socket or at least a good 6 point on a breaker bar and I sometimes use a 4 foot cheater pipe also. just keep in mind how strong the wrench and socket are. Crack them and then hit them with more blaster and work the nut both directions a few times to help the oil get in. most of the time I get them off but when all else fails get out the grinder as you have done. This method is not fast and you wont see guys like Jerre doing this because time is money in their case. Larger bolts when I can the grade 5’s and 8’s I like to clean up and reuse with new nuts just because of cost. Smaller stuff just replace. Something to keep in mind take a old bolt with you when you buy knew if you are not sure of the line code stamped on the head and replace with the same grade of bolts. Its tempting to look at how cheep the grade 2 stuff is and go “good enough” trust me if grade 2 would have been safe and worked the manufacture would have put it in. I try and put some lubri-plate type grease on the threads when I reassemble but to be honest with all the salt and the long time spans between taking off again I’m not sure how much good it does.

There have been a couple of good threads on paint prepping over the last year also if you cant find them with a search post back and I’ll see if I can find them. On prepping and priming sealing etc.

Bud

wyldman
04-20-2005, 06:11 AM
I've got die grinders here if you want to borrow one,and you can buy the cut off discs at Princess Auto.You will need a pretty good compressor for continuos use.

A 4 inch angle grinder with a thin cutting disc will work for cutting off bolts.You may have to remove the disc shield to make it easier to get into tight area.

Leather gloves and safety goggles are mandatory.Be careful,as the thin discs can easily explode if forced,and it's quite easy for the grinder to jerk around a lot.You don't want to get hurt,so go slow and steady.

Alan
04-20-2005, 04:18 PM
[QUOTE=On a another safty note when using a respiratior remember the bad stuff is suppose to stay on the outside read a article awhile back were kids using them to hold in fumes and stuff like mary jane.[/QUOTE]

Darn,, and I was just thinking how I could duct tape a really big pipe to the intake of my supplied air system so I wouldn't care how a paint job turned out.

bud16415
04-21-2005, 10:43 AM
Something I forgot to post above.

I have seen guys use these nut splitters a few times and they worked fairly well also.
Click links below

http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/7475/cid/1838

http://www.acehardware.com/sm-general-nut-splitter--pi-1292905.html

Bud

Snowboy
04-21-2005, 01:31 PM
Bud you hit the nail on the head. I asked about one of those at my work Home Depot. He didnt know if we had them but knew of em. You think a nut splitter will work?

I was also looking for stainless steel grade 5 or whatever grade bolts they are but need to see how costly they are. Might be best off just to undo the bolts and put anti seize on and every spring or on a warm winter day every once in a wile. One good thing can be said about rusty bolts you dont have to worry about them comeing loose on your plow you know they are on solid.

Thanks Bud..