Time to replace the shocks?

[John Banks]

For the last storm I threw the 9' Fisher blade on my '00 F-250. It worked great and I'm gonna keep the setup. I measured the drop and it's about 1 1/8" with the 9' blade. Therefore, I'm going to add Timbrens, and am wondering if I should replace the stock shocks as well, since I'll have them removed. The truck has almost 67k miles. Is there an average life expectancy for stock Ford shocks?

[John DiMartino]

With 67K id replace them now. I have had great luck with Bilsteins on the Dodges,much better than any of the Ranchos that are out there. I got mine from http://shockwarehouse.com/ great prices,fast shipping. I hope you like the timbrens, while they do hold the front end up,they severly limit usuable suspension travel,both plow on and off. I preffer the proper spring to carry the weight,if your budget allows. The f550 x springs bolt on,as does an add a leaf kit,either one will give you a much better ride than a timbren,and more usable suspension.

[wyldman]

The Timbrens can ride rough without enough spring capacity.X springs and Timbrens are the way to go.The Timbrens will then only come into play over big bumps,and when stacking.

[John Banks]

Thanks John, I'll check out the shock warehouse. I'd looked up the Rancho's at Summit Racing, as the deal seems pretty good, buy 3 get one free.

I agree with you about the springs though. There's a local spring shop that I've already spoken with about re-arching or replacing the packs. I've also thought about the X-springs. Do you know if the X-springs change the ride height? It may sound dumb, but I like the look of the stock rake, with the rear a bit higher. I can't stand to see the rear of the truck sit so much lower than the front, almost like the rear is overloaded.

Thanks again.

[John DiMartino]

Good point Wyldman, if the trimbren comes in at the right time it can work excellent in combination with a good spring, IMO a truck shouldnt ride on the timbren at all unless the plow is on the truck.There are some Fords running around with weight on the timbren,without the plow mounted.The timbren should be helping to carry the plow weight only,not support the empty truck

[John Banks]

Originally posted by wyldman
The Timbrens can ride rough without enough spring capacity.X springs and Timbrens are the way to go.The Timbrens will then only come into play over big bumps,and when stacking.

OKAY, OKAY - you guys convinced me. X springs it is. :D

Chris, do you know if the X-springs are a dealer only item? While I'm at it, any suggestions for the rear? I have the aluminum ladder rack, which is just about weightless, and run three full tool boxes. I then add about another 800 lbs of ballast for the storms. It's likely I'll add a 100 Gal fuel cell soon too. Does the same principal apply with Timbrens for the rear suspension?

Thanks.

[John DiMartino]

John,my experiences with shocks are limited to Dodge/Cummins trucks,but both the SD and Dodge have well over 4000lbs on the front end empty. I have driven alot of customers trucks,and not once have i been impressed with the rancho RS9000/5000s. Most guys who buy them quickly wear them out,and get the Bilsteins. I know you have leaf springs,i have coils,but either way the Bilsteins are night and day superior for what we do with these trucks.
As for the rake,i know what you mean,you can add a leaf to the rear,add a 4" spacer in place of a 2" if thats what you have,add airbags or live with it. If your truck rides on the timbren ful time you arent going to be a happy camper,you want a little travel before it hits(plow off).I think Greg(Dockboy) raised his front end with the x springs,AND an add a leaf together, then put a monroe muscle SLE (similar to timbren)i dont know what he did with the rear to balance it,but his truck sits very nicely,and rides great(he took me for a ride).You might want to PM him,hes very knowledgable with the Ford SD trucks.

[wyldman]

The X springs will leave the front a little higher,but they will settle down after a while.

The best setup for the rear is to keep the stock spring pack,and add airbags.Then you can adjust the bags to control ride height,load capacity etc.Using the bags to raise the rear,will let the air do more of the work,and the springs less.Much better ride this way.

Timbrens will not help on the rear until your really loaded,and the springs are compressed enough for the Timbrens to come into play.

You can also increase the size of the rear blocks,but this just promotes wheel hop and spring wrap.

[gslam88]

See her you two go again.. pushing X-sprigs and timbers.. .and direct them to someone else...
your always looking for something new

Where is Mark when I need him to back me up... .

Hummm.....


MARK.. MARK... do you see this !!!!!

and your right... I just won't let it go..... hehehehehehehe


Pete

[Dockboy]

John,

The stock shocks are basically junk anyway!:rolleyes:

X springs are the only way to go! Dealer item. Ask for X code springs or stock front springs fpr a 450-550. They are about $135 a piece.

They will get you about 1.5" over U-W springs. As John said, I have X's with an Add-a-leaf(3" total) and changed my stock 2" rear blocks to OEM 4" blocks. Sits perfect. Also have Monroe Muscle LE's. Half the cost of Timbrens. Only come into play when the plow is loaded and in the up position.

:D

[Randy Clarke]

John when you get the rear blocks from Ford, use a F350 with the same body as your 250, 4x4 /long box/short box extra cab what ever. Some of the models have a tapered 4" block due to the length of the truck. Also use new U-bolts and nuts, under $25.00 when you install the blocks.

[apgarconstruction]

John B, you got me thinking about shocks now, I just ordered a set of Bilsteins for the rear of mine. Shockwarehoue was great to deal with John D, thanks for posting their site.

does anyone know what the difference is between having a Cabchassis setup or a regular bed setup, when it comes to shocks. i remember when i ordered the last pair of rear shocks from a local auto parts store, they asked me if i had a CC setup or a regular bed. I am not 100%sure my truck was purchased as a CC. It has a util. body on it now, but something tells me it wasn't purchased that way. I didn't buy the truck new, it was 3 years old when I got it, util body was already on it.

are the shocks longer for a CC setup? wasn't really sure why there were two different choices.

[Mark Oomkes]

Originally posted by gslam88
See her you two go again.. pushing X-sprigs and timbers.. .and direct them to someone else...
your always looking for something new

Where is Mark when I need him to back me up... .

Hummm.....


MARK.. MARK... do you see this !!!!!

and your right... I just won't let it go..... hehehehehehehe


Pete

ROFLMAO Sorry Pete, I started reading this thread and then got busy and didn't finish it. Funny thing is, I was thinking the exact same thing when I got to your post. lol

What is it going to be next with you two?:confused: :confused: :grinz

[John Banks]

Thanks very much for all the help guys.

Greg, I think I will mimic your setup, sounds good. Obviously, with as much time as we spend in our trucks, ride quality is still important. One question though Greg, I have not looked at the length of the brake lines, did you need to lengthen yours with going to the 4" blocks?

Randy, thanks. Yes, I have done some truck suspensions back in the day. The taper is an excellent reminder, so as to keep the same driveline angle. I will get the longer U-bolts, etc too.

Dave, yes, based on John's recommendation, I will be going with the Bilsteins. I have never run them before, but certainly trust his judgement and advice. I visited Shockwarehouse and will be placing my order there as well.

Guys, again, I sincerely appreciate it.

[wyldman]

Originally posted by Mark Oomkes
ROFLMAO Sorry Pete, I started reading this thread and then got busy and didn't finish it. Funny thing is, I was thinking the exact same thing when I got to your post. lol

What is it going to be next with you two?:confused: :confused: :grinz

I got lots more stuff I can push,but I have to keep some of my secrets to myself. ;)

[John DiMartino]

Besides were actually saving you guys money by advising you's to get what work best the first time.When I bought my Bilsteins no one on the TDR was talking,I paid 35 dollars for a subscription there,and I was on my own. I just hope the Bilsteins work as good on a leaf sprung SD as they do on the Ram CTD.

[CraftyBigDog]

Yeah John I agree, I bought the Edlebrock IAS shocks and they are junk. No different from stock. Next Im gonna order Bilsteins, Ive heard nothing but good things about them. Now on my F-450 I just put Gabriels on. Its so stiff it wouldnt matter what I put on its gonna be bouncy!

[Ecurb]

We use Bilsteins on everthing from race cars streetrod to trucks and have nothing but good to say. Some of the other work OK but Bilsteins just seem to ride better. Air bags are the cats a## I have them on a 2 wheel drive truck and my back thanks me .(i broke it last year)

[Dockboy]

Originally posted by John Banks
Thanks very much for all the help guys.

Greg, I think I will mimic your setup, sounds good. Obviously, with as much time as we spend in our trucks, ride quality is still important. One question though Greg, I have not looked at the length of the brake lines, did you need to lengthen yours with going to the 4" blocks?



John:D ,

With just the x-springs, the ride is awesome! Not near as "mushy" and handles much better. With the addition of the Add-a-leafs, the ride get's a little firmmer ;) Not "stiff as a board" but far from "Caddy like"!!

Brake lines are fine front and rear;)

Just remember, when ordering shocks, make sure you order rear shocks for a 350, and if possible, order front shocks for 2-3" of lift;) Bilsteins will be my next shocks. I've gone through way to many Rancho's:rolleyes: They are great at first, but then the adjustment stops working after a couple months:headwall

[Mark Oomkes]

Originally posted by wyldman
I got lots more stuff I can push,but I have to keep some of my secrets to myself. ;)

That's what I was afraid of. :D I'm starting to think that a couple of you own stock in various companies and then you become their best salesmen. lol

[CPSS]

OK, here I go throwing cold water on the subject, but, I installed Bilsteins on my 2001 F-250 PSD when the truck had 36K miles on it. To be totally honest, I didn't see any difference over the stock shocks. Perhaps the stock shocks were in good condition...... or perhaps people who rave about the Bilsteins put them on when their stock shocks were totally worn out, thus there was a big improvement. Don't get me wrong, there's nothing to complain about with the Bilsteins, I just don't see any great improvement over stock.:confused:

[Pelican]

dapgar, two ways to check your truck to see if it's a C/C.

Look at the rear frame rails. If they are flat on top with no over the axle hump, it's a C/C. If there's a hump, it was a pickup.

Measure the length of your body. A C/C will have a 9' body, a converted pickup will be 8' if there's no space between the cab and the front of the body.

[Joey D]

I thought all single wheel trucks use the standard 56in cab to axle measurement bed or not and the duallys cab and chassis had the option of the 56in cab to axle or a 60 in cab to axle.

[apgarconstruction]

pelican,
I have an 8' stahl body on my truck. Ill look later to see if there is a hump on the rear frame rails.

do all c/c's have to have an 9' body? when i was just at the ford dealer for a possible new truck in the fall, they didn't mention that i had to have a 9' body on it. taht would be nice, but i don't need it to be that much longer, if i get the extended cab, it's going to be long enough. lol.

[Pelican]

Yes, the C/C will require a 9' body unless there's major modification done to the truck. The extra length occurs behind the axle and the fuel tank is located there as well. So unless the tank is relocated or the truck is ordered with the midship tank, the rails can't be shortened.

dapgar, sounds like yours is a converted pickup if there's no gap between the cab and body.