Hiniker "C" Plow

[RED BALL]

I invested in this plow, kind of in literature blind faith and a little dealer hustle. All my customers are residential with relatively short drives, which means back dragging to the street. Since this area has only had 2 Snows. So far so good. The Plow is very easy and quick to mount and with the side plates in place, has done a very respectable job.

2004 Chev 2500 HD Std Cab Long Bed
2004 8’ Hiniker “C” (old style)

[BWhite]

I have seen them . How do you judge the distance to the garage door before you fold the moldboard over ?

[CAMERON SERVICES]

Originally posted by BWhite
How do you judge the distance to the garage door before you fold the moldboard over ?
Good question. Infact wouldn't the blade guides limit how close you could get to a garage?

[BWhite]

So maybe the guides hit the garage door before the moldboard does :eek: then you back off ?

[CAMERON SERVICES]

If that's the case you'd probably destroy your blade guides pretty quickly, or even rip them off if you fold the blade to close to a garage.

[synner]

I think most guys fold them over as they approach the garage door. The blade guides have a big spring on them if I recall, sort of like an overgrown door stop spring, like the ones you screw to the baseboard to protect the walls in your house.

not the Hiniker site but almost as good.

http://www.snowplowsupply.com/plows_hiniker-cplow.asp

[CAMERON SERVICES]

Originally posted by synner
The blade guides have a big spring on them if I recall, sort of like an overgrown door stop spring, like the ones you screw to the baseboard to protect the walls in your house.
I know what you mean. Arctic uses blade guides like you described. Personally I think all blade guides should be like this.

[RED BALL]

Gentlemen:

Regarding distance to a garage door before foldover. Quite simple actually, 1. Pull up to door with blade in push position being careful not to get close enough for the rubber flaps to hit the door on the way down (they leave nasty marks on a white door). 2. Drop blade and pull back about 24 to 36 in. 3. Pull ahead just a bit then foldover, drop and pull.

Now here is where the literature is a little misleading. When back-dragging, depending on snow depth, the blade will still raise up when you accumulate enough under the frame. My experience so far has been 15 to 20 ft. But before it starts to ride over the snow you are completely down to bear ground, asphalt or concrete.

Then clean up in what ever manner is appropriate. Drag to street in 1 or 2 tries or back in and push to street depending on distance.

Also this puppy is HEAVY. I’m going to do something to the suspension, just not sure what yet.

Again so far so good!

RED BALL
North Central Indiana
2004 Chev 2500 HD Std Cab Long Bed
2004 8’ Hiniker “C” (old style)

[wyldman]

Timbrens and a few turns on the torsion bars will solve your sagging front end problem.

[William B.]

RED BALL- I noticed in you sig that next to your plow discription is says "old style". What changes has Hiniker made?
Thanks

William

[synner]

I think he means old style are the steel blade versions, newer style are a poly blade.

[RED BALL]

Mr. Barrett

Thank you for your advise. Two questions however, do the torsion bar adjustments adversely affect steering geometry when the plow is not on board and is there enough free travel with the Timbrens installed also not the have an adverse effect on geometry and ride? From your credentials I can have every confidence in your reply.

William
Re “old Style” The new ’04 &’05 models have a different trip set up. Better ?
The new style has 4 vertical springs, spaced along the blade for trip return. Old style has 4 springs mounted in the horizontal position 2 large springs and 2 smaller counter wound on the inside. Also steel blade

[wyldman]

If you only go 4-6 turns on the torsion bars,it will not affect the alignment or geometry much with or without the plow.All trucks are different,so you have to go a little bit at a time.Most trucks can keep the 4-6 turns year round,with no affect on normal operation.Some trucks need a few more turns (8 or more) to support a heavy plow,which will make it ride hard\rough when the plow isn't mounted.You may need to turn them back down in the spring when your not going to be plowing.

Timbrens don't affect the ride much,and prevent bottoming.They also keep the front end up when stacking,which takes a lot of stress off the front end.The Timbrens will not affect alignment at all.If anything,they make it better.

[RED BALL]

Thursday, February 10, 2005

Time to report in on the Hiniker “C” Plow.

Four plowable events so far. Here’s what we’ve done. In order to get enough ground clearance for the plow mount when acending/decending an extreme angle drive or an unusually high curb at the drives entrance. 1st Changed tire sizes, went from 245/75R16 to 265/75R16 picked up just an inch in ride height. 2nd added 300 lbs. ballast behind rear wheels, Picked up another ¾ inch. 3rd put 6 turns in the TB’s, gained about an 1 ¾.. Now life is good. The 6 turns only affected right side camber prox ½ degree.

Will put the Timbrens in when Spring gets here (no inside shop access right now).

The change in ride height has affected the plows ability to carry more snow in the fold over position. Now with about 6” of snow I can go clear to the street, 50 to 60 ft. and there is a H*** of a pile when I get there.

The only hookup and disconnect experience I have is with the Meyer on the old truck. For me there was no easy or quick way to do it. So, I put it on and it stayed on for weeks at a time. This plow is a different story. Two and half minutes to hook up(even with cold snowy electrical connections).Three minutes to unhook and drive away.

The only negative about the unhook process is pushing the lift cylinder all the way down ( and you only forget to do that once, trust me).

After changing the ride height it was necessary when unhooking the blade to put a 2 x 6 under wear edge to keep the correct attitude to drive back in.

Initial problems with the plow and installation. Every thing was handled professionally and in a timely manner by the selling dealer consiering the time of year, mid April, getting a manufacturer to deal with off season equipment spare parts was a little slow but there was little danger of snow at that time. We overcame all the install difficulties and finally got her home. The only major change I had to make was in the flow control valve for the plow drop speed. This thing came down hard enough to break concrete. I contacted Fenner directly and got the proper part no. FC1.7 , put it in and we were ready to go. Worked great.
The side plates are easily removed if I have to make a long run and roll snow to the side.

Would I buy another one? YES Is this plow right for everybody? NO.

I finally saw a Blizzard 810 several weeks ago and I was impressed ( he was impressed with the fold over concept also). I would probably have one of these too, but I can only drive one truck at a time.

Pictures to follow if I can figure out how.

[synner]

The only negative about the unhook process is pushing the lift cylinder all the way down ( and you only forget to do that once, trust me).

my guy does that about once a month, sure is funny watching him try to drive the truck forward, hold up the lights and get everything plugged in all at the same time. :D

[RED BALL]

Small world. The instructions are on the back of the blade too.
Like I said for me only once. HA

[RED BALL]

Will try to post some pictures.

[RED BALL]

With side plates on- Makes a good box plow

[RED BALL]

2 x 6 under plow edge to keep attitude correct for hook up.

[RED BALL]

Lift Mechanism- a lot of linkage to keep lubricated also.

[RED BALL]

A little help for GM's back up lights.