View Full Version : replacing spinner on proflo?
apgarconstruction
12-20-2004, 02:55 PM
I just picked up a used Western Proflo spreader, and wanted to do some maintainence on it before I started using it. I have the bottom assembly near the spinner, apart. I can't get the spinner to come off of the shaft. I didn't heat it up, because I didn't have access to a torch where I was doing the work. but other than doing that. has anyone replaced a rusted spinner before on this spreader? or should i just leave it rusty and use it? the unit i from 1995, but only used that year. it's in really nice condition for the age of it. looks exactly like the new ones they are selling today. i don't think they have changed much. even the speed controller is the same.
it's not rusted so badly that the metal is breaking apart. just moderate to severe surface rust. along with the end of the shaft near the spinner being rusty. I know that could be sanded off if i could get the spinner to slide off the bottom of the shaft.
any suggestions on what I should do, will be greatly appreciated it. I know that the rust isn't a big deal, i just figured that it would be nice to have the parts sand blasted and painted up really well before I started using the spreader. it's hard to scrap or wirebrush the spinner when it's still on the shaft/hopper.
Thanks Guys,
Dan Apgar
wyldman
12-20-2004, 03:24 PM
Leave it alone.
You will need to cut the entire spinner hub apart to get it off,and it will destroy it.
When it needs to be replaced,get a poly spinner replacement,and cut it off then.
Ditto! Touch up rust & paint as you can while its on there. Then when there are holes or pieces of steel flying into the lots with your salt, cut it off & replace the shaft, bearings & use a polyuerthane spinner to replace the steel one. Just switched my Pro Flo 2 to urethane Saturday night, Sawzall's are great :D You said the rust isn't a big deal but actually it is. It makes it easier for a salt build up to happen, which creates added time to salting routes to keep it clean & spreading efficiently. This was my main reason for wanting to switch materials, as I got 6 or 7 seasons out of the original steel one.
apgarconstruction
12-20-2004, 04:14 PM
thanks for your advice. i'll just scrape/sand as much as i can off of it. and then prime/paint it up the best I can. I know that getting the rust off was important. i just meant, since it was only surface rust, and not even close to actually breaking apart, that i could just leave it on there. i wanted to check first to see if there was a trick to getting it off there, that i hadn't thought off. i figured that I would just have to leave it there, and deal with replacing it when the time comes. it's just much easier to sand and power-wirebrush it when it's off. no big deal.
I can still get the bottom frame part really well sanded and painted up, since that is detached from the tub now. I had the upper cover off, where the belt and shaft start. when the time comes to replace the shaft, do I just take out that shear bolt, and tap the shaft out of the pulley? or cut the spinner off and take it all out through the top of the tub? just curious so I know what to do in a few years when I have to replace these parts.
is the new shaft poly too? or just the spinner? i would think that a poly shaft wouldn't be that strong. maybe i'm wrong.
thanks for all your input. you guys are great on here, and have really helped me out with other issues too.
I really appreciate it. glad I found this site.
Dan
"i just meant, since it was only surface rust, and not even close to actually breaking apart, that i could just leave it on there."
I knew that was what you meant, just wanted to let you know the more you battle the rust now, the more fun you will have at 4:30AM on a snow night ;)
The shaft is steel, just the spinner can be replaced with a polyurethane one. Looks like you would just unbolt the top pulley & remove from the shaft, and then there should be some sort of locking collar somewhere along the shaft to keep it from moving up & down, Loosen that & the shaft should then slide right down, probably don't need to cut it even. My drawing that I'm looking at doesn't show that so I'm not sure of the differences between yours & the Pro Flo 2. I needed to cut mine only because we were breaking one of the pulleys before it would break loose from the shaft, normally if everything comes loose, there is no need for a sawzall. But the shaft is only a few bucks so it is easier to replace that then trying to get the rusted spinner to break free from it. Go to the Fisher or Western web site & download or get them to send you the manual for your spreader so you can reference that (the Fisher & Western Pro Flo 1 & Pro Flo 2 spreaders are exactly the same except for hopper color).
http://www.fisherplows.com/
http://www.westernplows.com/
apgarconstruction
12-21-2004, 03:05 PM
I do have the manual from the guy I bought it from. I tried to get that top pulley off the shaft, and was able to move it somewhat, but it didn't want to come off. i'm just going to protect the tub area, and sandblast the spinner. sandblast the bottom frame part that goes under the spinner, paint it all up really good, and then put it back together. I'll replace the spinner next year, and i'm sure the shaft as well, because the shaft is basically rusted together with the spinner, looks like it's all one piece.
Thanks for your help. I really appreciate it.
Dan
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