Flat deck to replace bed

[Poochie]

Hello.

My 78 K15's bed is rusted out beyond all repair. Being in Canada, it's tough to find a replacement bed in decent shape (especially a short bed). To get through the winter I was thinking of just building a flat deck with a headache rack on it. Anyone got any hints or ideas on doing this? I would love to see some pictures if anyone has any.

Thanks.
Ken

[Pelican]

Welcome to Let'sTalkSnow.com Poochie!!:drinkup

There's a couple different ways you can do this. My friend, who's a pretty good carpenter built himself a bed from pressure treated lumber that worked well for him.

Another alternative would be to weld up a steel flaybed, and use either wood or steel plate for the floor. The all wood version will be easier if you don't have access to metal working tools and a welder, and they can be done to be pretty attractive. My friend stained his, looked real nice.

[Poochie]

Thanks for the welcome!

I was thinking of using the pressure treated wood for the floor, and making the sides and frame out of steel. I don't have access to a metal brake or benders, so it would mean relatively straight sections. I do have a welder, though. I just went through swapping the cab on the truck and painting it (all in my garage...first time paint too!)

I'm just not quite sure what to do about the fuel filler inlets, and possibly the bed sides themselves. I think that I would put "pockets" in the perimeter of the frame so that I could drop sides in to them when I need to.

Any idea how high off the frame something like this needs to be since the deck would extend over the wheels, unlike the original bed that has wheel housings.

Any pictures would sure help.

Cheers,
Ken

[wyldman]

Welcome to LTS ! :D

The fuel filler necks can be supported from the bottom of the flat bed.You made need to cut them down to fit underneath.

I would use the stake pocket idea,as then you can remove\install the sides quite easily.

If you want a totaly flat deck,you will need to space it up accordingly.

[Poochie]

Just spent the morning making some rough drawings and measurements. I'm thinking that the pressure treated wood is sounding like a good idea. Did some calculations on the weight of the thing using steel and came up with over 2200 lbs!! :eek: This on a half ton truck. Looks like it's back to the drawing board.

Any suggestions on what to use to support the floor and attach it to the frame? Based on measurements from the dead bed plus allowing for clearance for the tires, I need to stand the floor 5 inches off of the frame at the lowest portion and 3" at the highest (original bed was 3" at the lowest part of the frame, 1" at the highest). My weight numbers are based on using 5" square steel tube as the foundation for the low points and 3" square for the high points.

This seems to be a very frustrating exercise (for me at least). Has anyone tried placing a newer bed on one of these trucks?

I really do appreciate all of the input!

Cheers,
Ken

[WoofsPlow]

When I built mine I used 4"square press. trated posts cut to size as blocks for connecting to frame and it worked well.

[Dwan]

Biggest problem I have seen is everyone builds there bed to close to the top of tires. Then when they put a load on the tires rub.
Measure the distance between the bump stop on the frame and the axle. add and inch and that should be your minimum distance from the top of the tire and the bottem of the bed.

I lay PT wood on the frame to get a flat top frame to work off then cross the bed with 3" chanel iron (chanel facing backwards) and long enough to clear the tires by about 3" per side or about 7' over all in with. then cap the end with a 4" chanel (chanel facing inwards) and highenough to be lecvev with finished flooring. then I get hardwood tung and grove floring and make a bed, but I make sure the finished groves in the flooring ard on the underside of the bed so I have a smooth deck. I use self taping screws. Drill piolet holes in the deck through the 3" chanel cross beems before inserting screws.

I'll try to post some finished pictures later.

Dwan

[bud16415]

Pressure treated wood resists rot but also gets very heavy when it takes on water. It also has a high shrink rate. When I decked my trailer I used 5/4 pressure treated decking and I jacked each board tight against the next. Zero gaps. After one summer I had 1/8 cracks.

I would suggest using ¾ pressure treated plywood and treating it with linseed oil both sides. I made a temporary cover for a septic tank by cutting a sheet into 4 x 4 and doubling the thickness to 1 ½ inches and buried it under a foot of dirt. Moisture on one side dirt the other. Well the temp fix went 5 years and when I dug it up the wood looked as flat and strong as when I put it in. plywood is much stronger and you wont have cracks.

Check with your state inspection laws also some states give you problems with homemade beds.

Bud

[WoofsPlow]

Dwan - good point on clearance, mine rubbed when fully loaded and going over bumps. A friend of mine was not so lucky - his rubbed but not on the wood deck - on the screws that he used, blew both back tires:eek:

[Poochie]

Dwan.

If you could post some pictures, that would be great!

It sure is nice to have folks help you out!:cool:

Thanks everyone!

[Dwan]

Sorry I havn't been back here in a few days. Will try to take some pictures tomarrow.
You have to understand this bed was made back in 78 and has been redecked once in 92.

[Got Snow?]

can you work with aluminum? also, what are you carring in the back? 5" tube sounds big for 1/2 ton. my vote goes to all metal constuction. don't forget to add a hoist for dumping!

also, can you use parts of your rusty bed (ie floor)?