BOSS V Plow with Urethane Edge

[TLS]

I have a set of Black MPT Type II edges for my 8.2 sitting in my garage since last year. I haven't gotten around to installing them yet.

Would like to get some for my new 9.2 V as well.

My main concern is how to mount. I guess you cant just remove the steel edge, get longer bolts and just bolt up the U-Edge. Right?

You need some sort of backing structure so you don't get chatter. But if I use the new OEM edge 1/2" thick and 6" high, will the U-Edge even touch the ground? Add that to the fact that an 1 1/2" thick U-Edge combined with a 1/2" thick edge behind it, with some sort of steel strap to secure the front and bolt through would look hideous and stick WAY out.

Also.....How do they work with the new center Hoof plows? My 8.2 has no center hoof.

Any and all info would be great.

[Gregg Blair]

TLS,

The hoof problem is a long time problem, and I don't have an answer for you other than I know that there are people trying to solve the problem and I think there've been many tricks discussed on this site as to how they are doing it.

We manufacture a Boss 9-2 cutting edge, and honestly, the question you're asking has never come up, but I can see your point. My suggestion is that you use a peice of scrap steel, with the longer bolts you mentioned. You want to be sure that the urethane hangs below the moldboard at a length equal, or a little greater than the thickness of your edge.

I'm sure you'll get input from others who have experience with this, but this is my urethane manufacturer's input.

[snowplowjay]

Our line of Snow Removal products includes a Urethane Center "Snow Catcher"...............It is part # 5242-400-522 if you are interested let me know...................

It can be adapted to your U edge with minor trimming modifications....................

[TLS]

Thanks Guys.

But Jay, isn't that hoof what I already have new from Boss?

[wyldman]

No backer needed.You will need something in front of the urethane to keep it in place. 2"X3/8" flat stock will do the trick.

1.5 inches of overhang is what you want for most urethane,but not sure on MPT's type II product.It is a lot stiffer,so it may be different.

I have yet to see a urethane center shoe\hoof that holds up.There is just to much pressure in that area.I would either keep the steel hoof,or remove it and use a piece of thinner urethane to make a flap to cover the opening.I'm working on something now to hopefully solve this problem.

Let us know how it turns out ! :D

[snowplowjay]

Originally posted by TLS
Thanks Guys.

But Jay, isn't that hoof what I already have new from Boss?

It is a Urethane version of your steel "HOOF"


Some guys prefer them................

Its all in personal preference............

As Wyldman said that is a high pressure area at all times during plowing so it takes a lot of stress..............


Jay

[Pelican]

Nearly everyone I know who uses the hoof ends up losing it, the bolt used to secure it isn't heavy enough and it breaks. This seems to be one of the down sides of the V plow.

I know of some who have replaced the hoof with a piece of urethane stretched between the two plow halves with fairly good results.

[John DiMartino]

Tom, I ran the MPT type 2 last yr on my 9'2" until i got the 810. I will post pics for you.As for the center shoe,my advice is to run a stock shoe,and do not plow gravel in the v position, or enter uphill drives in the v position,this places the center pin out front of the cutting edges,and if contact is made between the ground and a lip or crack in the blacktop it will sheer the 3/8-16 bolt right off,and there goes your shoe. It isnt so much the shoe it's the bolt holding it gets sheered right off. My MPT type 2 edge came predrilled,while it was convienent Iwas not at all happy with the product's fit overall.I did a much better job with raw material and a sawzall,although it took an hr longer,the tight gaps meant for a cleaner plowing job.The already bad area of the center wiper now was even bigger, there is an inch gap between a new center shoe and the cutting edges,and if I redrilled the edge it wouldnt overhang anymore,thats 1/2 the reason I run a u edge is for the overhang. The predrilled holes were drilled to 9/16 .A Boss uses 5/8 hardware,so they had to be opened up to 11/16 which is difficult once the hole is drilled there is no center for the spade bit and it wanders/chatters. You cannot use a drill bit with urethane, only spade bits will work without melting the material. In the pics below you will see what I mean by the gap problem.If MPTs current product isnt improved over the one i got last yr i would not buy one from them,it is simply too much money to pay to have fit problems like that. Here is a pic of the overhang,it was over 3" on this plow,and it only chattered for a short time,maybe a few hrs,and then it was smooth.This is after only 2 small storms,notice the small hunks coming off,and already it looked pretty beat up.

[John DiMartino]

Here's the problem with the gaps,there is no way your going to do a professional job with this edge without going over it twice.

[John DiMartino]

Here is one of the edge after about 15 hrs of use. The steel hold downs are my second set.The first set I destroyed,they were too thin.I under estimated the pressure they must hold up too.This set is overkill, 1/2 thick X3. I feel any less will bend.MPT even told me i could use fender washers. I tried them,and the edges were bowed so bad within an hr that i had to stop plowing for fear of ripping the edge right off from the snow pressure between the edge/moldboard. The problem when they bend isnt the steel its the fact that it allows stone,and snow to get wedged between the mold board and backside of the u edge,and it starts to buldge out which looks bad,and it makes the edge not scrape as well.

[John DiMartino]

here is a pic of my first Edge from MPT,this one was an 8 inch that i had to make fit. it took more time but it didnt miss any snow. I made a wiper out of a scrap of urethane for this one.i honestly never thought it would last one storm,it ended up going almost 1/2 a season and did better than any of them i got from boss or mpt. Here you can see that thinner steel doesnt hold up as well. This was too thin.

[John DiMartino]

here's one of the edge on my GMC 's 8'6" western MVP. I used the stock edge turned it upside down and cut the insides so the ywouldnt make contact in the full scoop position. A U edge on the Western MVP works excellent,the center wiper works great,and there is no missed snow in the center.

[TLS]

WOW! Thanks everyone!

The OEM center hoof that I recieved with my plow appears to be a real hard plastic. Just a tad harder than a urethane edge. It has a 3/8" bolt and some sort of washer. 90% of the time I'm scooping or windrowing. If I come up to a curb I'm almost never in the V position. It'll be a slight change because I'm coming from a NON hoofed BOSS (major leakage!)

John, those are pics that I've never seen before!

I'm thinking of some 1/4" thick 1" by 3" angle iron as a retainer to bolt through. The 1" will cap over the top of the edge and I guess I'll get holes punched for the bolts, or drill them if I'm feeling extremely bored. Maybe I'll look into some extruded aluminum angle. My Dad works with that a lot, its strong and lightweight, and won't rust.

I'll see if I can draw a picture of what I'm thinking about.

I just wanted to make sure that nothing is needed between moldboard and the U-edge as far as a backer plate. That is a big relief to me.


Thanks again guys.

[TLS]

Hows this for a quick 5 minute drawing....

[John DiMartino]

Looks perfect,the angle iron is plenty strong.I like it.Just remember to expect some chatter if you mount it like did for a while.

[TLS]

I heard that dragging it backwards on a rough aggregate road will seat it in and prevent the chattering.

[bud16415]

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TLS
“I'm thinking of some 1/4" thick 1" by 3" angle iron as a retainer to bolt through. The 1" will cap over the top of the edge and I guess I'll get holes punched for the bolts, or drill them if I'm feeling extremely bored. Maybe I'll look into some extruded aluminum angle. My Dad works with that a lot, its strong and lightweight, and won't rust.”
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Be careful with the aluminum. You are right it won’t rust with water but salt will eat it up very fast.

I’m keeping an open mind about the U edge as I can see all the good points to it. I’m a little surprised that all the manufactures are still basically designing the plows for steel edge still and then everyone adds the U edge and it sticks out there a mile and takes away from that smooth curved snow rolling surface. You would think they would build a stepped back area at the base or something to except the thick material and the cap plate.

This whole matter of the gap in the center has me thinking but Chris posted he’s hot on the trail of solving that one so I’m going to sit back and see what shows up.

Bud

[TLS]

For as cheap as I could get this aluminum (free) this won't be an issue.

Sure, it'll get white and powdery, but 1/4 or 3/8" angle will take a LONG while to corrode to failure.

[wyldman]

I’m keeping an open mind about the U edge as I can see all the good points to it. I’m a little surprised that all the manufactures are still basically designing the plows for steel edge still and then everyone adds the U edge and it sticks out there a mile and takes away from that smooth curved snow rolling surface. You would think they would build a stepped back area at the base or something to except the thick material and the cap plate.

This whole matter of the gap in the center has me thinking but Chris posted he’s hot on the trail of solving that one so I’m going to sit back and see what shows up.

Bud [/B]

The biggest thing with u-edges is they aren't very well known,or proven yet.A few guys have used them,and had success,and other had bad luck.Quite a few of the suppliers have had bad chunking and tearing problems.Most of that has been overcome.

The newer formulations are much better,and the performance is very good.

The manufacturers don't want to add the cost of an expensive edge to the cost of the plow.They are also afraid people will not want it.

I don't think the thickness of the edge will affect the rolling action at all,as most of that happens further up the moldboard.

I have a whole whack of urethane stuff in the works,and a lot of it is too address the v-plows.It's all gotta be field tested first.

[bud16415]

TLS:

FREE is always good

[76chevyman]

bud16415
Blizzard make a u-edge to fit there plows perfect it has it set back then it goes even with the mold board. Im getting one with my new 720. Ill post pics. Im not sure if its the same for the 810.

straight blade
http://www.blizzardplows.com/polarstraight.html

heres the uedge for the 810
http://www.blizzardplows.com/polaredge.html

Rich:burnout

[GreenQuest Lawn]

The urethane seems to work quite well. I am going on my 3rd year and have not worn them much at all. I lost one rubber boot, so far this one has lasted 1.5 years. I would like to come up with a way to stick a piece of urethane in the center.

I also had a problem with the urethand riding up twords the center then it would miss spots in the middle. I ended up putting some angle pieces in to keep the center down (this is how I lost the first boot. The urethane rode up and all the weight was on the boot.

[GreenQuest Lawn]

I put it on my back blade as well but need to rethink it. If you are not completly in snow (some bare areas) it chatters like heck. I would imaging the combination of straight contact with the ground and the down pressure. I can not even use it on slush. It only sticks down about 1" or less. I may bring it up to just below the steel cutting edge like less than 1/2" See how that works.