Wiring diagram

[Snowboy]

This is how I was thinking of wiring up some lad’s to my truck.

The 6 gang fuse block is fused and illuminated rockers are used.
Weather pack connectors used on all outside connection points.

I am not sure on if I should run the ground wires up to the front of the truck or just run them under the truck a little way grind off the paint and make a nice steel surface and attach the grounds with ring terminals there.

Labeling the wires wouldn’t be a bad idea so I know later on if there is a problem with a light what is what.


Should i change this anyway? :confused:

Dave. :canada

[Alan]

Not trying to pick your design apart but I have a few questions/suggestions.

Why all the weatherpacks? I assume that two of the strobes and the backup lights are going on the box, so I can see quick connectors there but the ones on the front can be hardwired directly into the cab. Even as good as w'packs are there's no point in complicating things.

You show three wires to the backup lights. All I've ever seen was two conductor leads on those. They may run a three wire connector at the back of the light but that's only because they share the housing with something that has three.

It looks like you're running everything off a single 30 amp fuse which feeds a power buss. I'd run a #10 wire through a 30 amp self resetting breaker as a main feed to a fuse panel, then fuse each accessory off that.

My preference for grounds is to try to keep the connections out of the weather as much as possible. That's easy to do on cab mounted stuff, bring in all the grounds and tie them to one point under the dash. On the box mounted stuff I run them all into one lead and tie that to the frame in a spot that is ground clean and greased, then I run a self drilling screw through a ring terminal and drilled through the frame and then the whole connection is covered with grease again. Messy if you have to take it apart but seems to be permanent.

You can get both duplex and triplex wire, two or three independently insulated wires inside a second jacket. Using that you only have to route one cable to each location and then break out the conductors as required at the ends. It's a little more expensive than individual wires but a world easier to pull and far better for longevity. Around here it's a little hard to find triplex at auto stores but if there is a marine store anywhere near they should have both duple and triplex in a tinned type wire.

If you want to have a quick connector so you can take the box off if you ever need to you can do it with a single, 6 hole w'pack and still have one hole for a spare. Tie the lights together under the body and carry a single wire for each function to the connector. Doing it that way you could run the ground through the w'pack and right up into the cab where there would never be any weather issues. If you're concerned about getting any splices under the body protected there are weatherproof junction boxes for just that purpose. Bring everything in there, use one of the mounting bolts for the box as a ground terminal.

It's easier to do than to explain. I'm trying to get moving for the day so I can't go into complete detail right now but I can expand on this tonight if you want more. Or ask specific questions and I'll try to offer suggestions.

[Snowboy]

See where and how the lights will be mounted. (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/grassmn2/album?.dir=/a36d&.src=ph&.tok=phHz69BBvpEHMvkV)

Check out this link as well. (http://www.whelen.com/shared/dyngen/bookmark/frameset.php)

Alan I was looking for feedback so the more the better.

Strobes will be going in between the tailgate and bumper on either side of the inside frame there mounted on an aluminum block so they don’t get knocked off by me in the summer with a shovel.

I am using weathepack in case the lights fail I can disconnect them easily and don’t have to cut wire and ruin everything and main reason they are weatherproof.


The backup lights are LED and they have 3 wires coming out from them because they can be used as turn and brake lights, in order to get power you have to tie the red and black wire together.


I don’t think I am running everything off a 30amp fuse. The 30am fuse comes off the 10guage wire leading from the battery running to the switch box which has 6 individual fused for each rocker switch. I have pictures see the link here (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/grassmn2/album?.dir=/a36d&.src=ph&.tok=phHz69BBvpEHMvkV) in the post.

I like your idea of the 6 gang weather pack for the box I will use that idea. I will also use your grounding idea.

Is 16guage wire ok to use because I have 2 100' spools of it?

As far as duplex and triplex wire Canadian Tires sells it for trailers but its too small wire and too $$ since i will need at leat 100' with all the lights I am hooking up.

Dave.More info on TIR3 (you will need PDF) (http://www.whelen.com/pb/automotive/ProductSheets/11499.pdf)