plow blade

[campi]

would like to ask a question to the experts here?? I have a myers 8 ft plow on my truck, first I have to say it came with the truck whe I bought it! now I have new pump set up 1yr old new trip springs, new angle cylenders, just put new pivot pins put greese fittings in, like I said before, piow is 20 yrs old, noticed while sanding it down to paint pin holes rotted through mold board, cant try and weld it would make it worse!! dont want to cut out and piece new metal and grind it nt worth it , does any one sell just the mold board? just grind welds or cut them, or can I just buy steel and do it that way?? buying a new plow is not an option that i can go for at this time, every thing else on plow is fine!! i love some of the pics of plows you guys have very nice but i am small time, thanks Campi !!!!! let it snow!!!:cash

[sonjaab]

Moldboard....Yup you can buy a new one..But be
prepared to pay $$$$.......

You could always get the old "moldboard in the can"
aka Bondo and patch up the spots and paint the
moldboard up so snow will slide off.

Or take a piece of sheet steel and tack weld it over
the rust spots and bondo over it then paint.

Yea, Its a quick fix......But I have seen fellas do it
esp. when time and $$$ are short !..........geo

[flatbed]

I'm not to sure i would use "bondo" on it ..........i've seen that stuff fall off going over RxR tracks.......you might check Eastwoods site to see if thay carey a liquid steel type compound that can be sanded or ground smooth.....j b weld might work also but i'm not sure if you can sand it....... how much surface area are you looking at ?????

[campi]

flatbed, looking at an area about 8 in long 1 in wide not wide open just abunch of pin holes i dont want to bang them in would create bigger proplem!! just need ouick fix to get tru this season!! may liquid steel or some thing ?? thanks dont think bondo is the way to go , dont know yet?? Campi !!!!!:cash

[Garagekeeper]

Campi if you can't weld a patch over the area then pop rivet a piece of sheet galvanized sheet metal over the section that has the pin holes.
You could also apply a thin bead of silicone sealer around the edges before you mount it to help keep additional crud from get behind your repair.
:rolleyes: John............

[EIB]

Why not just buy a poly cover for it. All you have to do to mount it is to remove the cutting edge and place the poly under it. Then drill holes along the top to bolt it to the mold board.

[campi]

garagekeeper, thanks i see you do welding, could i use some kind of liquid steel ?? i know what your saying aboue patch , just dont like going down the road looking funky if you know what i mean?? what do you think about liquid steel or smething i could sand down and paint ???? Campi !!!! :cash let it snow!!!!

[campi]

i know there are many options right now $$$ tight need quick fix but need to look not all patched up , my friend mechanic, welder, is to busy this time of the year, to make new blade for me just need to get tru this season Thanks Campi !!!! let it snow !!!!!:cash :cash

[Garagekeeper]

Campi It's only a snowplow blade!
Chances are with a little paint you wouldn't even notice the patch.
Sure you could use some metal or body filler.
Just keep in mind the prep work your going to have to do before you can use any type of filler, and the work after to make it smooth.
But again all you want is to patch it and keep the snow from sticking in the holes and stoping the snow from rolling off or thru your plow.

:rolleyes: John..................

[campi]

garagekeeper, your right, i just like things to look right ,its just to get tru this season!! thanks, make lot $$$$ plowing!! Campi !!!! :cash

[slplow]

Since you just want to make it through the season. I would just paint it and for get it. The paint may fill some of the holes . I have seen plows where you could see the head lights through the plows and they had no more stuck to them than mine.

[W-n-K Landscaping]

I agree w/slplow- you could probably get away with just painting it- I wouldn't try any bondo, jb weld, or other mix and apply fixes- the just won't hold up IMO. If the section is raelly bad, then just mig weld a patch over it, sand and prime it, then paint the whole blade- you will not really notice the patch unless you are looking for it. Since you are only looking to make it through the season, that would do just fine. The prep time involved in the "two part epoxy" patches will be longer than just welding in a strip of metal and painting the blade, and won't last as long, at least in my experience they haven't.

Good luck, and just for curiosity's sake, let us know what you did and how it holds up! Thanks!

Bill

[CNY Joe]

Have you looked into one of those poly shield inserts?

[flatbed]

if you can get to it from the back side of the holes........ have your freind or some one with a welder tackweld a strip over it..............( back of blade)...then paint.......should work for the season..

[scfall]

I just put a poly shield on mine to coverup the same holes as yours. 3 benefits to poly, 1 snow wont stick to it, 2 covers the holes, 3 don't need to paint every year. I got mine from Angelos $36.00 to my door can't do much welding for that $ .

Scott:burnout

[WoofsPlow]

I have used fiberglass with great results. If you take your time the finish is o.k. I have covered holes I could put my fist through and it held up very well. You can't beat the stuff for tough long lasting results.:nodd

[Adams Plowing]

i think your best bet would probaly just get one of the poly shields from angelos but you could prob just get away with slaping a coat of paint on it and it would make it through the season... ive seen alot of plows that are in worse condition than yours sounds out on the road...

[campi]

adamsplowing(seth) doing what you said to do , i put 2 coats of that rust preventive primer on yesterday, going to just paint it with this paint i used before has polyurathane in comes out real smoth, lasts the season, i will put 2 coats on, will do nice fix in the summer, thanks let it snow!!!! :cash :cash :cash Campi!!! (joe)