View Full Version : lighting on 810 ?
PSDF350
07-29-2004, 02:59 PM
i have been seriously considering the 810. getting closer and closer to going with it, but i have another question. in the broucher and the plow i show today i didn't see lights so i am wondering do these come with light bar and lights or do you need to buy something and make do.:confused:
CT18fireman
07-29-2004, 03:08 PM
Everyone I have ever seen had a lightbar and lights on it. Snoway used to advertise not needed lights with their clear plows, although I think Alan and others would agree that you need them.
PSDF350
07-29-2004, 03:12 PM
i feel light are definitly needed, very dark around here. but in the brouchur it doesnt mention them and on his (dealers) truck he didnt have any light but he was just using it to move plows and demonstrate.
Pelican
07-29-2004, 03:23 PM
Yes, they come with a light tower that is easily removable. The installation kit is nice and uses relays with a default code back to the truck lights. The harness plugs in between the factory hookup to the bulbs, no cutting of the headlamp circuit. The park & turn lights still need to be tapped in though.
wyldman
07-29-2004, 03:30 PM
The light bar comes off very easily too,if you don't want it on in the off season.It is separate from the plow itself.
PSDF350
07-29-2004, 03:36 PM
very nice looking rig there pelican. thanks for the info becuase i was worried. i think you guys convinced me. got loan approval today get the check tommoro not as much as it cost but i close enough. so i think i will get it.
Pelican
07-29-2004, 03:37 PM
I don't think you'll be disappointed.
Are you having it installed, or doing it yourself?
PSDF350
07-29-2004, 03:46 PM
having it instailed want to make sure its done right, its worth the extra 300 bucks to me. i am going to want to have spare parts on hand what do you recomend i get before season starts.
Pelican
07-29-2004, 03:57 PM
Well the only trouble I've had requiring parts replacement is the blown hoses. Thing is, there are a number of different size hoses, so you'd have to stock a few to cover all the bases. I might carry an extra hitch pin too, though I've never lost one.
PSDF350
07-29-2004, 04:03 PM
thanks i figuired the hoses never thought about the hitch pin. dealer says he has alot of parts in case. i liked him he spent about a hour with me today and would have happily spent more if i needed it. i also like that he's only about 20-25 minutes from me and is a welder to boot. plus i think service in the middle of a storm (middle of night) wont be a problm becuase his business is also his house;)
greensway
09-15-2004, 09:15 PM
Is anyone having trouble with the lights vibrating while traveling?
I have tightened the bolts but is still loose.
When I slide the bars into the mount I need to pull one side out since it is so tight.
Any ideas?
Pelican
09-16-2004, 03:01 AM
The vibration is a common complaint. Blizzard used heavier gauge steel in the towers beginning last year to try to eliminate the vibration.
Your only solution would be to stifen the tower with some additional steel. If it really bothers you, you can an "X" between the cross tube and the top, it should stiffen it up considerably.
JD PLOWER
09-16-2004, 05:02 AM
I have had a similar problem with my setup in fact its my biggest complaint as far as the plow is concerned. The only solution I came up with is using washers and EXTREME FORCE while torquing the bolts on the lights. They sit slightly **** eyed but they do not vibrate any more. Not the best but it works.
wyldman
09-16-2004, 05:29 AM
I don't know if this would work on a Blizzard,but I know it does work on some other plows (like the Western Uni's).
I have seen some guys bolt soft rubber dock bumpers onto the light tower to help reduce vibrations.I don't know if it's the extra weight,or just the rubber acting as a damper,but it works.
The Western Uni-mounts will vibrate badly when they get older,and things get sloppy.It seems to solve the problem on those.
4evergreenlawns
12-02-2004, 07:01 AM
Anyone else come up with a way to tighten down the HEADLIGHTS??
What a real PITA. I have cranked on that nut and they still move around. While plowing in dark lots it has become distracting even.
I will give it a look see today. Maybe after taking it all apart I can come up with something but seeing how this configuration has been around for awhile now I am thinking someone else has already figured it all out.
JD,
I was also thinking about the additional washers. If they are sitting kind of crooked I am guessing you added the washers above the cross post between the light Assy and the bar. Did you try inside the tube??
Thanks in advance for any advice.
BTW this plow is GREAT. I must thank all of you for passing on the good, bad, and ugly over the past two years. Adding two 810 has really made a difference in the productivity of my trucks as well as allowing for additional potentional inthe future. Extra thanks to Steve, John, and Jerre for keeping an open mind even when people like me were dragging BLIZZARD through the mud.
wyldman
12-02-2004, 08:29 AM
Weld a piece of 1/2 flat stock (2" X 4") to the end of the tube,and drill a hole in it.You now have a solid flat surface to mount the lights to,and easy access to the nut.
4evergreenlawns
12-02-2004, 08:35 AM
Chris.
I was thinking a flat surface it what is really needed. Access to the nut really is not bad at all. I can get the box end on the nut and get a good turn no problem. But I do think the round surfaces is what causes the problem.
Have you done this mod?? Any pictures of the final result?
Thanks
Jerre Heyer
12-02-2004, 10:12 AM
GEAR WRENCHES>>>>>>>
Ron, You should have a black curved spacer on top of the tube, Inside the tube should be a grey washer with a rubber grommet attached. Rubber up to the tube. THen a lock washer. then the nut.
Sometimes we add a second washer after the grey one, Then tighten away.
You can also increase the size of the hole in the bottom of the tube to allow socket wrench access. I use a gear wrench cause it does such a quick and good job.
P.S. Thanks for the Kudos..
Jerre
wyldman
12-02-2004, 10:26 AM
Originally posted by 4evergreenlawns
Chris.
I was thinking a flat surface it what is really needed. Access to the nut really is not bad at all. I can get the box end on the nut and get a good turn no problem. But I do think the round surfaces is what causes the problem.
Have you done this mod?? Any pictures of the final result?
Thanks
I have done one,but took no pics. :(
Check and make sure you have the spacer installed correctly,as Jerre mentioned.
If it still doesn't satisfy you,then weld on the piece of flat stock.
4evergreenlawns
12-02-2004, 11:10 AM
Thanks guys will do.
AltaLawn
12-02-2004, 01:48 PM
Thanks for the ideas on these lights..I was thining the same thing...they don't seem to tighten down enough. :(
John DiMartino
12-02-2004, 02:17 PM
Thats something, i never had a problem with mine loosening,I guess Jerre did a good job;) .My entire tower rattles more than id like though. Thanks Ron for the kind words, I owe to to Jerre,and Pelican, IMo once you own an 810,you cannot use anything else and be happy with your production. Ron if you ever want to supersize that 810,add a side wing,you wont beleive the work it can do in a few hrs when your feeding that wing with an 810.Your basically taking everythign the 810 does and moving it 4ft further.
wyldman
12-02-2004, 02:29 PM
You can also remove the pins and add bolts for the light tower.This will stop it from shaking and reduce the flickering lights.
urethane dino
12-02-2004, 02:40 PM
What about getting the light tower out. I tried to remove mine, and with out getting a hammer out ?
Joey D
12-02-2004, 03:33 PM
Basically the lights are fine but the tower sucks. My lights are not loose at all and don't move but the tower will bounce side to side causing the lights to shake. I am having a piece of steel welded to the side to see if it helps.
My light tower also sucks to remove. I dented the lower tube with a rubber hammer trying to remove it. I am going to cut out the lower tube and weld it in with the tower in place as it it to narrow to fit nicely. I like the bolt in idea too, get rid of the pins and make it tight, we will see.
Pelican
12-02-2004, 06:05 PM
I'm getting a chuckle from this thread! The original 810s had a bolt on tower, just two 1/2" bolts to secure it. Took all of 3 minutes to install it. So many speculators complained that this was the reason they wouldn't buy an 810 that Blizzard obliged and made a quick release tower. The complaints continue........
John DiMartino
12-02-2004, 06:18 PM
My only complaint is the tower is so loose that is blows the marker and plow light bulbs. It shouldnt do that,they made an existing design a quick mount,they should have done a little better job on it IMO,took it a step futher,made the mount a little beefier in the area where the tower fits in it,or at least put a set screw or a way to preload it so it dont flop around so much.The lights should not move around that much on a brand new plow.I think i am just going to bolt it solid for the winter,it dont really matter much to me if its on full time.
4evergreenlawns
12-03-2004, 08:42 AM
Steve,
I can understand what you are saying. If Blizzard took action based on user feedback when the plow was in early production and delivery I would think as there production has increased by 400% and still not being able to meet the demand more user will have more feedback.
If we spent more time plownig during daylight hours no one would care. Lets face the facts and agree that since we do 80-90% of our plowing at night I thinking the headlights can be considered important. If they are monted to a base (tower) that needs redesign that so be it.
I like what John said about keeping the quick pins but adding a set screw that can be tightened down to firm up the mount. However I think the height of the tower from the mounting base is where the shaking comes from therefore the set screw would really be of no help. Some one mentioned a X in the center. Anyone try this??
I have not attempted to remove the tower just because of my type of use. Once it is on for the winter it will stay one.
I am just saying the lights do move around, and is seems like from what I am reading even if I do get them to stop moving the tower itself it going to shake the heck out of them until they blow out.
There has to be a fix and I am sure with time Blizzard will get it worked out.
Pelican
12-03-2004, 06:14 PM
I didn't have a problem with the original set up. While it takes just a short time and 2 3/4" wrenches to install/remove, I leave mine on all winter too. Blizzard has used a sligtly heavier grade of steel for the tower to lessen the vibration, but I guess not heavy enough. It just doesn't seem to bother me.
I started plowing with an old farm tractor, no cab and 6 volt electrical system. It had pull and push angling and slow hydraulics. I guess I keep looking back to what I had and am VERY pleased with what I've got now.
Crazygator
12-03-2004, 06:26 PM
Originally posted by John DiMartino
My only complaint is the tower is so loose that is blows the marker and plow light bulbs. It shouldnt do that,they made an existing design a quick mount,they should have done a little better job on it IMO,took it a step futher,made the mount a little beefier in the area where the tower fits in it,or at least put a set screw or a way to preload it so it dont flop around so much.
John - As your sig says "2000Ram 2500 Cummins twin turbo diesel", I really dont think they were designed to run at the drag strip! LOL
Anyone have any complaints as to the low looking mounting system? Or does the photos that I have seen appear different in person, as in not actually as low at the photo looks? Just wondering.
4evergreenlawns
12-03-2004, 07:53 PM
Jerre,
Checked both trucks and I have the round portion on top of the cross bar but just the nut on the bottom. Seeing how they were both installed at the same place I am guess they just overlooked the rubber part.
Is it something I can get from Blizzard?? Maybe if I go with two rubber things on each than the flat washer and a lock nut??
As always thanks in advance.
Jerre Heyer
12-04-2004, 03:46 AM
Ron,
It is a dealer available part but to Save time go and get a couple of grommets ( rubber) at home depot or value home /lowes and a couple of flat washers, Put the grommet in first and then the washers, then the nut. If the grommet is thicker than 1/8" cut it in half throught the center section and use one half for each light.
As far as the side to side wobble.....An x works to help but the best fix is to add a bolt and weld a washer to the side of the light tower bracket on each side.
As far as tight getting them in and out ( Light tower ) .........<<<<<<<<<<.DEALER INSTALL>>>>>>>>>>.........That extra time on the install means alot. IMO The tower takes a few minutes to fit up and make sure the pins work free and the tower goes in and out smoothly.
Jerre
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