Controller Problem

[Pelican]

I bought a 1.5 yard Salt Dogg spreader used and am having a problem with the controller. The auger wasn't working so I went direct to the motor with power and determined that the motor does indeed work. Next I opened the controller and found that both the positive and negative leads are switched through seperate relays. I determined that both relays are working and that I have power on the positive lead. I found that there was no ground going out through the harness, the heavy gauge white wire next to the purple circled relay. I bypassed the relay and put ground direct to the harness and the auger motor runs.

The orange jumper wire indicated by the purple arrows goes back to what's either a rectifier or transistor (IRF2804) circled in green. There are a total of 4 of these transistors/rectifiers that use the back wall of the enclosure as a heat sink. During operation of all functions 3 of the 4 get warm to the touch, while the one circled remains cold.

My theory is either the cold transistor or the circuitry leading to it is bad but I don't know how to test it to confirm. All I have for testing is a multi-meter. Are there any electronics wizards here that can tell me what kinds of values I should see on the legs of this piece? It seems like this should be an easy fix, the alternative is a $500 controller.

[Basher]

I bought a 1.5 yard Salt Dogg spreader used and am having a problem with the controller. The auger wasn't working so I went direct to the motor with power and determined that the motor does indeed work. Next I opened the controller and found that both the positive and negative leads are switched through seperate relays. I determined that both relays are working and that I have power on the positive lead. I found that there was no ground going out through the harness, the heavy gauge white wire next to the purple circled relay. I bypassed the relay and put ground direct to the harness and the auger motor runs.

The orange jumper wire indicated by the purple arrows goes back to what's either a rectifier or transistor (IRF2804) circled in green. There are a total of 4 of these transistors/rectifiers that use the back wall of the enclosure as a heat sink. During operation of all functions 3 of the 4 get warm to the touch, while the one circled remains cold.

My theory is either the cold transistor or the circuitry leading to it is bad but I don't know how to test it to confirm. All I have for testing is a multi-meter. Are there any electronics wizards here that can tell me what kinds of values I should see on the legs of this piece? It seems like this should be an easy fix, the alternative is a $500 controller.

The issue has been replacment parts. we can track the failed components but have not been able to find a source for proper replcement parts in part because of the unknown performance parameters of the part itself.

[Mark Oomkes]

The issue has been replacment parts. we can track the failed components but have not been able to find a source for proper replcement parts in part because of the unknown performance parameters of the part itself.

Is your last name Murphy?

[Basher]

Is your last name Murphy?

I've been practicing:D

[Pelican]

The issue has been replacment parts. we can track the failed components but have not been able to find a source for proper replcement parts in part because of the unknown performance parameters of the part itself.

Huh???:huh

[The boys]

Huh???:huh

sounded like he was preaching corporate propaganda to me

[GMC Driver]

I understood it as - without knowing what the parameters of the original failed part are (ie. resistor), then it is difficult to source the correct part. These parts are available, but the fear is that putting the incorrect part (because the specs are unknown) would only cause further damage.

FWIW - we have tried fixing these on more than one occasion. First one was diagnosed as a failed resisitor, and soldering in a new one got me another year. I've also had trouble with the circuit boards in them. Whatever we've had repaired "professionaly" has never seemed to last. My soldering skills are limited, and I have no problem paying someone to diagnose and fix, but we were warned that this was a band-aid approach.

This year we bit the bullet and repalced one unit with a Karrier Omega 2 - everything works as it should (maybe even better). Plus it was considerably cheaper than the Buyers replacement, and is the conventional dial system, not the digital readouts. Not a big fan of the digital ones. Bob at Karrier has taken the time to explain to me on more than one occasion the history behind the controllers - and he does sell a superior product, no doubt. It will be interesting to see how much longer the Karrier unit lasts.

[Basher]

Thanks GMC driver. Thought I was "speaking" english but I guess not. Let me try rewording it in single syllable words.

We can find out what is bad, but finding the right parts is not easy.

[Mark Oomkes]

I've been practicing:D

Huh???:huh

sounded like he was preaching corporate propaganda to me

Exactly why I asked if he last name was Murphy.

Thanks GMC driver. Thought I was "speaking" english but I guess not. Let me try rewording it in single syllable words.

We can find out what is bad, but finding the right parts is not easy.

Nope, you're not. This makes sense.

[Pelican]

The stage I'm at is trying to confirm the part I suspect is bad is in actuality. If someone is willing to give me a little direction, that's the question I asked.

I googled the part number and it seems readily available in OEM form, wouldn't the specs be the same?

[Basher]

We have had good luck when we can find the parts.

[tlc]

What is the cost of the karrier vs buyers controller?

[The boys]

What is the cost of the karrier vs buyers controller?

the karrier is 5 bills the buyers is + more the thing is the man wants to know if it can be repaired and hold up over a given amount of time. he is interested in cost versus value. hes not afraid to buy new just wants to know if he can fix what he has and it will last. Money is tight for all of us. I say Steve buy the part and solder it in if it makes it a year + you got your monies worth.

[tlc]

I understand completely and there was no knock intended there. I was just wondering for my own good. I have two of those units and have heard so much about the controller issues.

I agree if you can fix it it's worth a shot

[Basher]

the karrier is 5 bills the buyers is + more

Depends on the dealer. We have the Buyer unit at $529.00 I think.

[CGSI]

Steve
I have a Buyers here for you if you want it but it is the one Karrier built and not the knock off. Let me know if you want one or a have Karriers here too. I will drive and meet you half way if you want. Unfortunately from seeing your picture of the inside you got the "Knock Off" version of the Karrier. Call me and you will be HAPPY.

[CGSI]

The issue has been replacment parts. we can track the failed components but have not been able to find a source for proper replcement parts in part because of the unknown performance parameters of the part itself.

Thats the problem with "Knock Offs" Why own a copy of a Rembrandt when a Rembrandt is obtainable...... Oh Yeah, I forgot... the bottom dollar of proffit comes first.

[JD Dave]

Thats the problem with "Knock Offs" Why own a copy of a Rembrandt when a Rembrandt is obtainable...... Oh Yeah, I forgot... the bottom dollar of proffit comes first.

And I guess that goes for electric spreaders in general. If you wanted a Rembrandt you'd buy a hydraulic spreader but the bottom dollar of profit comes in again. I understood exactly what Basher was saying, he must be part farmer.

[CGSI]

And I guess that goes for electric spreaders in general. If you wanted a Rembrandt you'd buy a hydraulic spreader but the bottom dollar of profit comes in again. I understood exactly what Basher was saying, he must be part farmer.

Dave
I have 4 under tailgate spreaders (Hydraulic and 2 V-Box's also Hydraulic) and they pretty much are all idle because of the issues we had with spread rates at varying RPM's. The electrics work much better in our application. If anybody wants hydraulic spreaders reasonable let me know.

[JD Dave]

Dave
I have 4 under tailgate spreaders (Hydraulic and 2 V-Box's also Hydraulic) and they pretty much are all idle because of the issues we had with spread rates at varying RPM's. The electrics work much better in our application. If anybody wants hydraulic spreaders reasonable let me know.

Your the first person to ever tell me that hydraulics aren't the best. I have no use for undergate spreaders but a Vbox with a front pump is pretty hard to beat. The only people I have ever heard not happy with hydraulics have cheaped out on the size of pump.

[CGSI]

Your the first person to ever tell me that hydraulics aren't the best. I have no use for undergate spreaders but a Vbox with a front pump is pretty hard to beat. The only people I have ever heard not happy with hydraulics have cheaped out on the size of pump.

I am sure if it were not for the varying RPM's they would be fine but the majority of our work are in lots and the up and down on the throttle just made setting a spread pattern tough and when you use the electric the problem goes away in our application.

Like you were saying the only people not happy with hydraulic systems (in there application) would be if someone went cheap on the pump. Now if you carry that one step further the people that have the most issues (most, not all) are people who have units made with some "cheaper" components. I put an 8' Salt Dogg Stainless V-Box on my 3500 and used a Rhino Harness and Omega Controller on it when it was brand new and have had no issues whatsoever I still have a couple of the Buyers branded Karrier built Controllers which I am saving for customers that don't want to upgrade to a Karrier Rhino Harness as it has Buyers style connectors.

In my opinion if you "go cheap" on any part of a spreader drive system it is going to come back and bite you later be it a pump, controller or motor and that is whether it is hydraulic, gas or electric.