Pro Controller upgrade question.

[OsborneConstruction]

I upgraded my plow to the new Pro Controller. The thing I don't like about it is that the up/down is backwards to me. When you push up, the blade goes down, when you push down, the blade goes up. The dealer said they are all that way. I hooked up a new revolution blade to my truck, and the controller worked the same for that as well. Running heavy equipment, that is how the blade would operate, but it sure seems backwards on my plow.

Has anybody switched wires around on the solenoids to make it function like every other plow? I haven't studied the wiring diagram to much, but it seems like it would be possible, unless the "up" on the remote (which drops the blade) is a momentary function in the switch, not a continuous function. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[OsborneConstruction]

This is a used 29 series plow that i purchased used from a dealer, and had them do the upgrade to the pro controller. The other thing that I noticed, is the plow doesn't raise all of the way. It stops about 1/4" from the metal 'stops' on the a-frame. that would probably be about 3" of blade height. The motor still runs, but changes pitch, like it was against the 'stops'. Is there a lift height adjustment somewhere? This blade doesn't lift nearly as high as my other blade did.

[Basher]

Switching the wires will render the down pressure useless. Look for some thing binding, are you sure the unit is full of fluid?

[OsborneConstruction]

They just serviced it, and it is full on fluid. Nothing appears to be binding, and everything works smooth and fast. (way faster than my 7.6) The only thing i can think is that the ram is to short. (It appears original, or at least OEM, so that doesn't seem likely.) None of the holes where the ram mounts are oblong or worn, and everything appears to be in good shape. My concern is I only have 10.5" of clearance with the blade fully raised. I am new to the drive-in setup (my 7.6 was a 3-pin) but even fully raised, the kickstand still rests on the ground. (if it is in the down position) but maybe that is typical with the drive-in setup. I don't know what my ground clearance was at the cutting edge before, but it seemed like a lot. The truck drops less than half an inch when the blade is raised, so it is not in the truck. Thanks for your help Basher.

Also, I came to that conclusion with the wiring while I was studying the schematics. I guess I will have to reprogram ME to the new remote.

[Jerre Heyer]

Could flip the control around and swap your angle wires. Basher is right. Binding or low fluid.....or depending on the truck it was on vs the truck it's on now you could be out of ram travel.

[OsborneConstruction]

Could flip the control around and swap your angle wires. Basher is right. Binding or low fluid.....or depending on the truck it was on vs the truck it's on now you could be out of ram travel.

I will just have to get used to the up/down thing. If it is out of ram travel, what could be done about that without drilling new holes?

I have never paid attention, but what is the average cutting edge to ground clearance? 10.5 just seems awful low. It also seems like it could be a problem for stacking, as the top edge of the blade barely makes it to the bottom of the headlight beam.

[Basher]

It should be much higher. Can you post a picture of the lift mech. in both the up and down position, and the truck mount with out the plow mounted.

Did it lift higher before you changed controllers?

If it is a new install; you sure the center member of the truck mount is square and was not improperly assembled?

You can program one of the macros to raise the blade then you only need to touch the button and the blade will raise on its own.

[OsborneConstruction]

The mount on the truck is new and correctly assembled. The plow is used and new to me. I sold my 7.6 3 point mount, and purchased the 8' used, and had the dealer do the upgrade for the pro controller. I lifted the blade all the way up (with the controller) and then grabbed a hold of the blade by hand and lifted, and it went up a lot more. I got out my jack, and lifted it to its fullest height, and the cutting edge was 17.5" off the ground, and I still wasn't against the 'stops' on the plow, my jack just ran out of height. With my old plow I couldn't move the blade by hand at all when it was hooked to the truck. Maybe there is just that much slop in the joints on the scissor system. I took some pictures of the plow in the down position, and then in the up position.

plow down
http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo38/osborneconstruction/03%202500HD/th_DSCN4278.jpg (http://s359.photobucket.com/albums/oo38/osborneconstruction/03%202500HD/?action=view&current=DSCN4278.jpg)

http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo38/osborneconstruction/03%202500HD/th_DSCN4277.jpg (http://s359.photobucket.com/albums/oo38/osborneconstruction/03%202500HD/?action=view&current=DSCN4277.jpg)

plow up

http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo38/osborneconstruction/03%202500HD/th_DSCN4276.jpg (http://s359.photobucket.com/albums/oo38/osborneconstruction/03%202500HD/?action=view&current=DSCN4276.jpg)

http://i359.photobucket.com/albums/oo38/osborneconstruction/03%202500HD/th_DSCN4279.jpg (http://s359.photobucket.com/albums/oo38/osborneconstruction/03%202500HD/?action=view&current=DSCN4279.jpg)

[OsborneConstruction]

After looking at it more this morning, I have 1 5/8" of ram travel from turning dp off, then lifting it up, before the blade moves. So there is a lot of slop in the joints on the scissor lift. Should I weld all of the holes shut, then drill new holes? Maybe make some steel bushings? This blade must have been used a lot harder than I thought. The other thing I noticed last night after driving it with the blade on, is that there was quite a bit of movement from the blade, where my last one stayed ridgid while traveling, which is what led me to believe that there was a lot of slop in the scissors.

[Basher]

You need a service kit (#99110394) that includes all the spacers in the lift system. Might be worth you're while to replace the pivot hardware the goes with the spacers. Hopfully they did not let it go too far or you will be replaceing or repairing your bell crank. Check the main pivot for the swing frame, that bolt could probably use tightening as well. Check the pivot in the swing frame and make sure it has not broken loose, happens sometimes if the bolt is allowed to get too loose. If so center it up, weld in place then clean the swingframe up so it sits tight to the Aframe.

It would be worth while to replace your seperate lift links with the new one piece HD lift link (part # 96111895) used in the 29HD and 29R, or duplacate it by adding the brace to your exsisting links. If you decide to build your own, tack it in place with the unit assembled and operate it to assure clearances before welding solid.

http://www.snoway.com/service/Updates/97100829P.pdf

[OsborneConstruction]

Thanks Basher. Did you by chance mean #96110394? The Dealer couldn't locate part# 99110394. The bell crank looks a little worn, but not to bad. I will see how it does with the new parts, and maybe just weld the bell crank and drill new holes.

[Basher]

Sorry my bad, yes 961 not 991.

[OsborneConstruction]

Parts are ordered. They are due in Wednesday afternoon, so hopeful everything goes well when I install them, and my blade lifts a lot higher. I know it is going to vary from truck to truck, and plow to plow, but what kind of clearance should be 'normal'?

[OsborneConstruction]

Basher, I went to install the new one piece lift arm, along with the service kit, and I was surprised to see that the new bushing has quite a bit of slop in the new lift arm. Is that normal? I didn't expect the bushing to be a press fit, however I didn't think that there would be a 1/16" to 1/8" of gap all of the way around it either. It seems like that would make the bushing wear out a lot faster.

[Basher]

Yes there is some play, if the tolerances are too tight they seize up.

[OsborneConstruction]

Thanks again Basher, I just didn't want to assemble it if it wasn't right.

[OsborneConstruction]

Just wanted to give an update. Replaced the hd link, the bellcrank, installed the service kit, slightly modified where the bellcrank mounts to the front of the plow, and I gained three inches of lift. After doing all of that, I still have a lot of slop where the lift cylinder is mounted to the angle iron at the back of the plow. When it stops snowing for a couple of days, I am going to cut out the brackets and make some new ones and weld them in. That should give me about another three inches of lift.