What to do

[Jake]

Here's my situation. Base angle on my Fisher 8' Minute Mount plow is worn to the point where one of the springs popped off the other day while plowing. The tab was worn to the point where the bolt hole wouldn't hold it anymore. New base angle is $348 at the local plow place, plus another $240 for labor to put it on (4 hours at $60/hr). $588 total for doing it that way, not including a new cutting edge. When I asked about repairing the one I have, his answer was that the labor would take it to well over the cost of new.

I got the plow used (big mistake) a couple years ago, and bought the story that came with it, hook, line and sinker. Guy said it only had one season of plowing on it ... ya right. I use it for residential, maybe 8 or 9 driveways, not a whole lot.

Anyway, I have no idea how much a new plow costs, but wonder if I might be better off getting one ... opinions?

Thanks,

--Jim

:headwall

[Mick]

Hi, Jim. Have you looked in the paper or Uncle Henry's for a used plow you could take the moldboard off (and make sure the edge is in good shape) ? Generally, I'd say you'll be better off with new, but there are quite a few plows for sale right now.

[Jake]

Hey Mick,

How's it going? Good idea, never thought of that ... is there a snowplow section, or ... hmmm, I must have an old Uncle Henry's kicking around somewhere.

Thanks for the idea.

--Jim

[Mick]

It's been awhile since I got one, but I think the plows were either with or just after the truck section (maybe "truck accessories").

[slplow]

Jim, im with mick. There are plenty of good used blades out there for sale.
I have got to ask this. What hole's on the A frame did you use to hook up your blade to the truck ( top middle or bottom)? Also what truck was it mounted on?

[Jake]

My problem started last winter when I first noticed drag marks in the snow from the 4 spring bases. I adjusted the attachment to the top holes, hoping the increased angle would alleviate the problem. It did, but also significantly decreased ground clearance when the blade was all the way up. Even the slightest inconsistency in road conditions would make the blade hit the pavement, and we get lots of frost heaves in the back roads here in Maine.

It took some friggin' around to realize the length of the lift chain didn't matter, the head gear had stops on it, and that's why it only comes up so far.

And obviously, if I' had gone to the lower holes, it would have made the situation worse, so I settled for the center holes.

I'll bet you can guess it's on a Chevy, '94, 2500 4x4. Great plow truck. Especially with a few bags of sand in the back. I used the sand for ballast and weight distribution. Ballast so that it would help keep the plow higher off the ground when travelling between jobs, and ballast for the slippery paved driveways I do ... only 2 paved driveways, and they are both on a hill, go figure.

Thanks for you input.

--Jim

[slplow]

Well Jake, on your chevy the bottom hole would have made your A frame level. The middle hole would be level on a ford or dodge. That would have made you base angle last alot longer. On my dodge I even use the lower hole so it will scrape better
I might have a good 8ft for you with a back blade ( base angle near perf cond)in the sept . For around $500. ( I will be switching plows with my dump in the fall)

[Jake]

sl,

Thanks for the info and offer. I'll keep you in mind ... if I had started new with the plow, I think it would have been set up right, but I bought it from a fella that had it on a Chevy, so I figured it was good to go.

--Jim

[BWhite]

If you dont buy Scotts plow, I would buy the new base angle and do it yourself . I have changed them , all you need is Fishers spring compressor , basic tools, muscle and your done .

[Jake]

How much should I expect to pay for a spring compressor?

--Jim

[BRL]

http://www.j-thomas.com/Catalog/245.htm

$24.00 plus shipping. Buy the base angle at that dealer, that price was a good $30.00+ shipping cheaper than the online price I saw, surprising! Don't forget to get the pins, new trip springs, etc. you'll need to replace as well. Then, put a cutting edge on it before the new one wears to that point again. I belive instructions about that should come with the new one, but if not, post here & we'll get you the answer as to how many inches to wear off before installing a cutting edge. Good luck.

[slplow]

Thats funny bill, you read my mind. I was going to wright the same thing to night.
Jake you can also buy new spring brackets they are like $8.oo pc and if I remember right, they need to be welded on. If the base angle ears ar worn, you can weld new one's on too. (around$ as the brackets)

[90plow]

I've heard of this before. I was reading and was wondering what happened to the bolt on wear edge thats supposed to contact the ground? The guy that had his base angle break figured the cost wasnt worth repairing the blade. He went out and bought a used western blade and electric pump had the ears on the blade modified to fit the Fisher mount, ended up with a fast full trip plow on a nice heavy mount. If I was in your position I would get an old used blade and start over.
JMO
Eric

[BRL]

"I've heard of this before. I was reading and was wondering what happened to the bolt on wear edge thats supposed to contact the ground?"

With the Fisher plows, you are supposed to wear the base angle in to a certain point, THEN start using the bolt on wearable cutting edges like just about every other plow also uses.