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1985 Chevy Suburban 3/4 T K20 cracked frame at the rear right shock mount.
The problem is the frame has an indent at the shock mount for the shock to travel without hitting the frame.
I can weld a flat piece of steel plate on both sides of the frame across the indent but it will put the shock slightly out of alignment due to no more indent and the additional width of the steel plate. Anyone had this same problem and what is the best solution?
A steel plate? Cut out the section and weld a new one from another frame?
I am running without shocks right now until I can figure out a solution, so the sooner the better!
Thanks,
-Kev
Backcountry
02-22-2004, 01:27 AM
If your shock mount is just cracked; can't you just weld the crack on both sides of frame?
You may also be able to have a machine shop in your area make you a contured plate that could be welded to your frame.
Sort of like the ones they make for the steering gearbox.
If it were me, I would not cut a section out of my frame.
The right-rear shock is bolted through the frame and not on a seperate shock mount (I guess I wasn't clear on that).
The frame is cracked and splintering from around the hole and the hole is broken and widening.
See the pictures I've included.
Help!!
-Kev
rhino131
04-27-2004, 03:15 PM
please tell me that some one makes a reinforcement plate because just discovered my truck has the same problem and it is alot worst than kens the crack goes all the way to the top of the frame
ratlover
04-28-2004, 06:36 AM
outa curiosity
You guys ever run air shocks?
wyldman
04-28-2004, 07:30 AM
V grind out any cracks and weld them up first.Then you can put a plate over top.You can tack it on then use a torch to heat it red hot and conform it to the frame before final welding.If you didn't want ti make it conform,and use flat plate,then you will need some sort of spacer to move the shock body away from the frame.Just remember,the further you move the shock out,the more stress you put on the frame where it attaches.You can also "flip" the shocks end for end,so the narrow tube is up top for some added clearance.
Joey D
05-02-2004, 03:16 PM
Could you just cut out a larger square section of the frame there and weld in a filler plate the grind it down smooth and redrill a new hole in the new piece for the shock mount?
Most of the time it's due to the shock mount coming loose and the end result if left alone is the cracks
bjmorel
01-05-2005, 04:22 PM
I am having thiss smae problem, did anybody fix this succesfully? I think I am going to have someone weld in a contoured piece, but I was wondering if anybody had a recommendation of hot or cold rolled steel, or a specific alloy. Thanks for the help.
Brian Morel
76 chevy 4x4
derekbroerse
01-05-2005, 05:37 PM
Are you guys running extra leaves, or lifts? Make sure the shock is not 'topping out' if the wheel drops in a hole etc. because that will work like a slide hammer and cause these sorts of breaks... as well as broken shocks, bolts, or bad shock grommets.
Chuck Smith
01-06-2005, 06:24 AM
I found the same thing on my 80 GMC, right rear. The shock was loose, I went to snug it up, and ended up grinding the nut off to change the mount. When I got it off, the hole was oblong. I welded a 1/8" thick washer over the hole. Mine was not as far along as yours though. No cracks.
~Chuck
Fred Neddow
01-06-2005, 07:19 AM
I have saw this alot around here,I think it is cheap hardware supplied with new shocks.It usually tends to happen after some one changed the original shocks.Either the lock washer breaks or the threads give up on the mount its self.How many of you have put new shocks on recently or the shocks are replacements?A buddy of mine cut the section out of another frame and welded it onto his after he welded the cracks.
P.S.we are getting 6-8 inches of snow today!!!!:canada
plowing!
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