View Full Version : Front axle U-joint replacement
Crimedog
02-18-2004, 06:14 PM
It was warm today (37*), and I had the windows down and I heard a ticking noise from the front. Get out, and sure enough, the u-joint on the right side of the axle has got some play in it. We are supposed to get a storm tomorrow night. I am pretty sure we won't have to worry about it, but I plan on replacing it on Sunday. Anybody know where a good set of instructions are for replacing it, and any special tools? We tried to do the front on our old 97 1/2 ton, but we couldn't get the hub off. I am assuming that after 165,000 miles, the hub is going to be pretty will fused on mine. Any tricks for getting it off without damaging anything?
Thanks
wyldman
02-18-2004, 06:29 PM
Powerwash the axle tube out first,to get all the dirt out.Pull the caliper,and tie it up out of the way.Remove the 4 hub bolts.You will need a very large axle puller\slide hammer.Rent or borrow one if neccesary.Make sure it will fit the 8X6.5 bolt pattern.
Now here is the trick.Leave the axle shaft nut in place when you pull the hub,as it will keep the bearing intact.Otherwise you'll separate and ruin the bearing.It's a sealed unit,and very pricey.
Once you get the hub free a bit,then remove the axle shaft nut.Heat it up first,and remove it slowly by hand,using some penetrating oil on the threads.If you don't,it will most likely take the threads off with it.If it strips,you will need a new outer stub shaft.
Once it's free,remove the hub,and very carefully slide the axle shaft straight out,without damaging the seal.
Same goes for re-installation,be really cautious with the axle seal,it's very fragile.If you have a leak afterwards,give it a few days,it may stop on it's own.
Use only OEM Spicer U-joints,sealed ones,not the greaseable ones.Get them from a good driveline shop or jobber.The dealer has them,but they are 3 times the price.Whatever you do,don't use a parts store cheapie u-joint,or you will be doing it again next year.
Crimedog
02-18-2004, 06:39 PM
If I leave the nut on, won't it keep the hub from moving? Or will it slide at the diff? Now, when you say heat up the shaft, is that with O/A torch, or sit for a while with propane?
BWhite
02-19-2004, 02:53 AM
Great instructions Chris , I cant stress how important it is to wash out the axle tube (great idea) and be real carefull when sliding the axle past the seal ...I have damaged a seal . That side had a very slow leak and kept the wheel well liner and knuckle well lubed . I never fixed it . I bought the new truck. Its not that bad of a job to do , you can save some money doing it yourself (300+/- at dealer . The part at the dealer was $100 :( . I dont know about doing it outside that would not make it as pleasant
wyldman
02-19-2004, 03:35 AM
You need to get the nut pretty hot,pretty quick,to snap it loose.I'd use oxy\act,or a small MAPP\oxy torch.
When you leave the nut on,the hub will still come out,just the axle shaft comes with it.
Leave the hub bolts screwed in some to limit how far it comes out,so it doesn't damage the seal.Once you get it free,then remove the axle shaft nut,and push the axle back in some before removing the hub.
Crimedog
02-19-2004, 09:43 PM
NAPA has 46.00 each for Spicer. That seems a little steep, or is this what they are for these trucks? When we did the ones on the 1500, they were 15 bucks a piece. If only the right one is bad, I suppose I might as well get the left side, too, huh...
wyldman
02-20-2004, 03:53 AM
The D60 joints are much bigger,and more expensive in general.Make sure it is a genuine Spicer OEM part.It should be sealed,and have NO grease fitting.It should also look pretty much identical to what is in there.
Just because the pass side is gone,doesn't mean the drivers side will be gone too.There is really no overlapping labor in changing them (except jacking up the truck),so if the other side is OK,you can leave it for now.
BWhite
02-20-2004, 05:33 AM
Matt I paid $ 100 per joint for the OEM at my local Dodge dealer . If you can find the OEM quality at an independent distributor you can save a few bucks . If you go with the cheapies they will work , just plan on doing the job more often and cross your fingers you dont breakdown during a storm .
Lawngodfather
02-20-2004, 11:21 AM
You leave the nuts on so it don't fall apart when you pull on them.
Just did a 3/4 ton last week, and ohhh what fun. Did another 3/4 ton last fall.
Never did a half ton but I think they are similar.
You can also tap it out from the bolt in back, to do this put a socket on them to keep from messing up the head of the bolts.
Lawngodfather
02-21-2004, 02:40 PM
Did ya get em out................
Update update!!!!!
Crimedog
02-21-2004, 08:49 PM
Yup- driver side was cake, but the pass. side needed a bigger negotiating hammer:D Got the U joints put in, and tomarrow I am going to put it all together (waiting on rotors to come back from getting turned, and tire that picked up a nail:rolleyes: ). Only got to work on it for 3 hours today, it went a lot quicker than I thought. Thanks for the input guys.
Lawngodfather
02-21-2004, 09:18 PM
Cool so you needed a 5lb sledge on the pass. side?
Hope you didn't mess up your socket and extension.
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