How do I get the Motor for the E60 off???

[roblandscape]

I cant figure it out, Thanks for your help!!

[cat320]

first take the 2 phillip head screws from the motor cover.
second use a 3/8" wrench on the two mounting studs once the cover is off
when you remove the motor make sure to hold parts together while removing.

just looking at the repair book for the E-60

[roblandscape]

I did that and the motor won't budge, tried hitting it with a rubber mallet and still....no go

[BRL]

Is it real rusted & corroded up in there? Maybe the mounting bolts broke off instead of unthreading? Or the rust is binding it together. Hit it a little harder & if it still doesn't budge, might have to buy really long drill bits & drill the broken bolts out?

[Big Nate's Plowing]

to quote the cool dude from american hotrod

if it dont work get a bigger hammer

in all seriousness if it isint free and falling into about 10 pieces then something is wrong, most likely the main motor shaft is rusted to the pump input shaft, those will rust/corode together and you will end up ruining the motor trying to get it off

[roblandscape]

Bolts arent broke, and the pump isnt that old???? The base is broke and I need to replace it. I will try to pound it harder. Thanks

[cat320]

If you got the two bolts out there is nothing else holding it on except rust from what I can see in the diagram.Try spraying some twister (liquid wrench) on the joint and maybe it will loosen the rust.

[digger242j]

How did this ever turn out?

I'm having the same problem right now. The problem with the motor is that the wire inside the case broke off the stud , where the power wire attaches. I got the cover off, and the bolts out with little trouble, and can see the broken wire, but I'll be darned if I can get the motor loose from the pump. I beat on it with the rubber hammer, and sprayed WD-40 on it. Even tried just a little bit of heat. (Didn't want to overdo that.) It's still on there nice and solid.

Any other suggestions, either for what might work, or what to avoid because it will definitely ruin it?

I seem to remember a thread with pics showing how somebody actually broke the motor case because it was so badly corroded to the pump section. (Maybe that was on some *other* site... :rolleyes: )

Bigger hammer is under consideration...

[Assured Services]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by digger242j
[B]How did this ever turn out?

I'm having the same problem right now. The problem with the motor is that the wire inside the case broke off the stud , where the power wire attaches. I got the cover off, and the bolts out with little trouble, and can see the broken wire, but I'll be darned if I can get the motor loose from the pump. I beat on it with the rubber hammer, and sprayed WD-40 on it. Even tried just a little bit of heat. (Didn't want to overdo that.) It's still on there nice and solid.

Any other suggestions, either for what might work, or what to avoid because it will definitely ruin it?

I seem to remember a thread with pics showing how somebody actually broke the motor case because it was so badly corroded to the pump section. (Maybe that was on some *other* site... :rolleyes: )


Now Youv'e got me interested too how it turned out, as I have the same pump
:eek: :eek:
Hope it all worked out for the best, and maybe they have a few tips for a pita job..

Scott

[BRL]

I would try a real rusted parts remover vs WD 40, then hammer again. After seeing many people suggest PB Blaster, and seeing it on the shelf at the place that works on my trucks I bought some. The stuff is great! Then see Nate's post as that's probably the problem and I'm not sure how to deal with that, so in that case I'd send it in to a shop probably.

[Chuck Smith]

The problem is that any time you join aluminum and steel together, they corrode. A bigger hammer is the only real answer. You might try "Naval Jelly" or something similar that dissolves oxidation. Rust is not the real problem. Oxidation is. Do you see a white crust where the motor meets the pump housing? The motor mounting plate is steel. There could be some rust there, but it is usually easier to free a rusted part vs. an oxidized one.

My brother was at the local Meyer dealer a couple of weeks ago, and the guy told him that Meyer went back to the single terminal motor, which i think is BS. They went to a dual terminal motor when the motors stopped working, due to a loss of ground between the motor and the pump housing (due to oxidation). The only catch with a dual terminal motor is that you need to run a short jumper to the original grounding point on the pump housing, from the new ground lug on the motor, to provide a ground for the coils and valves.

You can try heat.... IF the motor is on there that good, I would consider upgrading to the dual terminal one at this point, as ground problems are just around the corner. The steel plate the motor mounts to is like $15.

Just hope you don't crack the pump housing....

~Chuck

[digger242j]

My brother was at the local Meyer dealer a couple of weeks ago, and the guy told him that Meyer went back to the single terminal motor, which i think is BS.

I was talking to the alternator shop this morning about repairing this one once I do get it loose and the guy there was worried about parts availability. "Prestolite stopped making them", was what he said. Now, whether Meyer made a change becasue of Prestolite not making any more, or Prestolite stopped making them because Meyer made a change, or whether the two facts are related at alll, I don't know.

Heat, PB Blaster, bigger hammer....we'll see what happens.

[Big Nate's Plowing]

I wouldnt rebuild it, I would just apply the 5# BFH liberally and buy a new motor, they can be had for $120 shipped to your door

[digger242j]

for $120 shipped to your door

Heck, Nate, if you know someone who'll ship $120 to my door, I'll go to my local Meyer dealer in person and pick one up! :)

(Or was I reading that incorrectly?) :(


Actually, I think what I'm going to do is to leave it mounted on the headgear and position the floor jack under it and try to lift the front end of the truck off the ground. Maybe a little heat, and a little tapping on it with a hammer.... Might work....

A penny saved is a penny earned, and so is 120 bucks.

BTW, thanks everybody for your help so far. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[BRL]

I don't think the point is the $120.00 (or the ~ $200.00 from the local dealer for the same motor), it's saving the time & money & hassle when that motor starts to break down every other storm, or every other plow stop this winter. You will spend a whole lot more than the $120.00 in down time trying to use a beat motor on the plow. I went through that last winter (or the one before maybe?). Motor couldn't be rebuilt simply because the shop couldn't get the parts needed, so I just got a new one.

[wyldman]

I agree.While $120 (or even $200) is a decent amount of money to spend,it's worth it for the piece of mind.No hassles screwing around with used parts that may fail.It will pay off with the reliability this season.

[Big Nate's Plowing]

the problem with the stuck motors is that the only way to get them off is with a steel hammer and once you hit it you break the field magnets and render it no good, I bought a rebuilt motor from a local starter/generator shop and had so many problems with it that I just threw it in the trash and bought a decient aftermarket unit for $50 and said screw the rebuilt and the whopping $10 savings I didnt have another problem all last season and I am sure the guy I sold the pump to wont have a problem either:grinz

[digger242j]

Completely sidestepping the question of whether or not a rebuilt or repaired motor is as good a value as a new one--you still need to get the inoperable one off the pump, right?--here's what I did...

I pulled the end cover and mounting bolts from the motor. Then I took my floor jack and a couple blocks of 6X6, and positioned them under the motor. I found that I needed to pull the bolt out of the ram/lift arm, and move it to the front hole in the lift arm--otherwise access to the bottom of the motor was obstructed by the lower crossmember of the headgear. As it happened, one of the hunks of 6X6 I grabbed had a slight angle cut on one end. That proved to be an advantage. When I jacked up against the motor, it started to tilt a little to one side, because there's a little bit of play between the bottom mounting holes and the bolt. I turned the angled end of the 6X6 so the angle matched the way the motor was tilting, and before I'd raised the front bumper more than a few inches, the motor popped right off.

Granted, it's not terribly corroded. There was a little white powdery stuff in between the pump and the end of the motor, but no white crusty stuff like Chuck had mentioned. If it were worse, I'm sure it would've been harder to get loose, but I'm also pretty sure I didn't do any further damage to it. Next time I'm faced with the same problem, I'll do it this way first and save Nate's BFH for a last resort.

[Lawngodfather]

Originally posted by Chuck Smith
A bigger hammer is the only real answer. BFH

And cross your fingers.

[bud16415]

They make a grease to prevent aluminum oxidation on wires. You might want to slap some on when you reassemble it to aid in the future. Just a thought.
Bud

[Lawngodfather]

Dielectric grease

[county plow eq.]

this is one of the reasons they are discontinuing the e-60 for the e-57