View Full Version : Por 15
Dfrenzy
10-02-2008, 01:19 PM
I am looking to coat my fame and underbody of one of my trucks and have been looking at a few different products to hold back the rust. I am looking at Por 15. Does anyone have any goods or bads on this?
salopez
10-02-2008, 02:15 PM
Por 15 is great....but its a process!
you have to clean it with their products, degrease with their product
then prime with their product and then paint.
john mc
10-02-2008, 03:36 PM
I use magnet paint look them up.They are cheaper. I have used por 15 I like this better .http://www.magnetpaints.com/
Basher
10-02-2008, 03:58 PM
Have used POR-15 many times with great success
Dfrenzy
10-02-2008, 05:52 PM
Hey guys thank you for all of your input I was just reading on the magnet paints as well. Now I need to make some decisions on what to use here. The Por 15 does seem like a lot of steps but if you want id done right you need to take those steps.
john mc
10-03-2008, 02:06 AM
I love the magnet paint there chassis black is the nuts. Just hit it with 36 grit grinder or wire brush .then two coats of chassis black done. Hard as a rock brush it with no brush lines self leaving no joke. there is a little learning curve with it .like Don't put the can lid back on with paint in the rim .Over night the can will weld to the lid .The paint is so hard.You need to sandwich a plastic bag between the can and the cover.there is a couple other trick I will let you know about
tbalz
10-03-2008, 03:06 AM
Sandblast the metal then POR-15. Top coat with Rustoleum or Eastwood Chassis black. With sand blasting you dont need to do the other steps.
Eastwoods version of POR-15 does not work as good as the real stuff.
Dfrenzy
10-03-2008, 03:11 AM
How will either of these two products be on the underside of my bed itself?
Landgreen
10-03-2008, 03:15 AM
I love the magnet paint there chassis black is the nuts. Just hit it with 36 grit grinder or wire brush .then two coats of chassis black done. Hard as a rock brush it with no brush lines self leaving no joke. there is a little learning curve with it .like Don't put the can lid back on with paint in the rim .Over night the can will weld to the lid .The paint is so hard.You need to sandwich a plastic bag between the can and the cover.there is a couple other trick I will let you know about
You're right about hard as a rock. I painted my mower decks last year with it and just recently started on my western. Holds up well. Toxic stuff. Isocyanate (sp?). Lots and lots of fine print on the label. Wear a good respirator and be careful handling it. Didn't get any on skin but label says it does not come off like other paints. Only problem I had was getting a finish coat to stick to it. Finish coat is peeling off in some areas. Need to prep a little better for it.
john mc
10-03-2008, 02:53 PM
Another major trick you must top coat within 24 hrs or you must sand very important.The base coat black is so hard it will not let it stick. I like to top coat when it is slightly tacky to the touch .wire brush then put two coats of black it will never rust again .
john mc
10-03-2008, 03:08 PM
For your bed I would just wire cup with a grinder then put two coats of chassis coat gloss black it will never rust again .
Chuck Smith
10-03-2008, 08:21 PM
I have not used it myself. I have used Mastercoat, which is a knockoff I'm told. Same thing, nasty stuff, Isocyanate, builds up in your body over time like lead. Something about crystalizing in your lungs too.
Had a Rep here last summer with the Napa Rep. Mentioned what happened to Pro Sno's frame after applying it. He said all he could think of is that possibly Bill wiped down the frame with laquer thinner or another solvent before applying the POR-15. He said that your should NOT wipe it down with any solvents after blasting. He said you can only wipe it down with their products, or just wash it with plain water.
I put that Mastercoat on my 77 Chevy bed 16 years ago, the top coat has come off in flakes (and that was CON-LUX Industrial Enamel brushed on thick), but not the Mastercoat Silver. If POR-15 works half as good as the Mastercoat, you can't go wrong. Acetone and aircraft stripper will not take it off!! Funny, over a short period of time (I forget) Ammonia will soften it. Read the MSDS COMPLETELY!
~Chuck
Pickering Snow
10-06-2008, 02:52 AM
Thanks Chris for bringing up the safty issue with por15 , guys make sure you invest in a decent air quailty protection when working with this stuff.
During many months of testing 3 yrs ago many things i sprayed were linked to the blood born cancer i have,, good stuff just be safe fellows.
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