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View Full Version : Electrolysis - Rust Removal?


Chuck Smith
09-11-2007, 08:27 PM
Going to give this a try soon. Not sure how soon, but soon. Anyone try this?

There is a link to a guy that made a vat to do a whole small trailer frame, and used a welder instead of a charger.

http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm

http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm

And why you should never use stainless for electrodes, though it is said to be OK by many fools doing this!

http://antique-engines.com/stainless-steel-electrodes.htm

~Chuck

Chuck Smith
09-19-2007, 05:39 PM
Well I started on it first thing this morning. Got a pan I made from a poly 55 gal. drum. Put about 15 gallons in it. Put about a cup and a 1/2 of the Arm & Hammer super washing soda in it. I disolved it in the last bucket, and used hot water instead of cold to help it disolve.

Pan.
Brand new rusted up Meyer 11" sector from around 1970.

~Chuck

Chuck Smith
09-19-2007, 05:43 PM
Getting set up. Just need to add a jumper.
After 2 hours @ 10 amps
After 5 hours at 10 amps for 4, and 50 amps for 1 hour.

~Chuck

Chuck Smith
09-19-2007, 05:51 PM
After 5 hours I took it out, and hit it with a scotchbrite in one spot for about 10 seconds. I flipped it and put it back in. I'll do more tomorrow. Very happy with how it is turning out. Had a neighbor ask why I didn't just sandblast it. This is much cleaner, and while the rust is falling off, I am doing other work.

Yep, there is pits, but NO rust. Even where the sandblaster can't get easily. Granted this is a heavy piece of iron, but only the rust is coming off, unlike blasting where it all comes off and makes a huge mess.

~Chuck

Jerre Heyer
09-19-2007, 06:49 PM
Time for a bigger dip tank and the welder. Jerre

chipsearthworks
09-19-2007, 07:13 PM
Time for a bigger dip tank and the welder. Jerre


Thats what i was thinking, maybe a tank big enough to do a hole truck???:eek::grinz

Looks good though keep us up to date on the progress, Always had a interest on how that would work.

Chuck Smith
09-19-2007, 07:20 PM
This was just a test. Got a plastic 55 gallon drum out back. Got a welder too, but the owner was not cooperative today about me using it :wink.

Chip, click the third link I posted up top. The guy did a trailer.

~Chuck

chipsearthworks
09-19-2007, 07:24 PM
This was just a test. Got a plastic 55 gallon drum out back. Got a welder too, but the owner was not cooperative today about me using it :wink.

Chip, click the third link I posted up top. The guy did a trailer.

~Chuck

Holy slap nuts I was just kiding!!! dam, that is impresive.:eek:

Mark Oomkes
09-20-2007, 05:29 AM
That's cool Chuck. Great work.

Used to be a company by me that had some big tanks like that. Place was called The Stripper. Not sure if they used electrolysis, I know or thought one was sulfuric acid, but maybe this is actually what they were doing.

GuzmanProperties
09-20-2007, 07:26 AM
Nice job!!!

Chuck Smith
09-20-2007, 10:04 AM
Well things are going much faster today with the :weld hooked up instead of the charger. Even at only 5 amps. About an hour at 5 - 10 amps and I can flip it. Doing a second one now. Things really get rolling at 160 amps though :wink

~Chuck

snowjoker
09-20-2007, 10:59 AM
How would that work with this powdercoating stuff they use on these plows.... I would rather get all that crap off and use something more durable like enamel paint?

Chuck Smith
09-20-2007, 11:41 AM
Good question, I think it will take it off, as it is applied electrostatically. The paint comes right off. These two sectors I am doing are pre-powdercoat. The paint slides right off in sheets. I'd imagine the powdercoat will too.

~Chuck

tbalz
09-21-2007, 03:12 AM
Chuck,

Do you think this might help in freeing up a rusted up&stuck king pin in a Meyer sector? I would rather not heat it up and pound on it if I dont have to.

thanks

Chuck Smith
09-21-2007, 04:23 AM
I assume you mean the pivot pins that connect the sector to the moldboard. The king bolt connects the sector to the A frame.
I don't know. It might help loosen it. I was hoping it would myself, but I don't have one to try it with yet. That said, I am leaning towards yes, because brand new, there is quite a bit of size difference between the pin and sleeve, which packs with rust. As the original poster at the second link I posted said, it is a "line of sight" process. I am going to add more rods in the future when doing this. The idea is to center the piece in the container, and not let it sit on the bottom. Right now I am using all my saw horses for other projects, or I would be suspending the piece in the center. Also, there is no comparisson between using a small charger vs. a welder. The charger was a waste of time. Maybe a larger "professional" charger on wheels will do it though.

~Chuck

Pickering Snow
09-24-2007, 02:29 AM
That's cool Chuck. Great work.

Used to be a company by me that had some big tanks like that. Place was called The Stripper. Not sure if they used electrolysis, I know or thought one was sulfuric acid, but maybe this is actually what they were doing.

Mark

Iam sure they were using acid dip tanks down on Miller Rd in Flint is were we get it done when doing frame offs , costly though but worth every penny on return trip and final prep.

Couple of american hot rod shows have shown the acid dip being done.

Chucks idea running a smaller version is a better way to start on the electro process. Chuck i have a couple of big snappy chargers running constant duty that would probley work but still think the welder is the better way.

If you ever want to get real serious about this your more than welcome to my Dads old rad Dip tank would be the perfect use for it has a small boom and chain fall he would use on larger truck rads. With rads being sold new so cheap anymore i emptyed the tank and coated it with rustproofing years ago if i remember correctly it holds around 450 gallons of water.

Mapleleafpete
11-28-2007, 03:16 AM
Very cool,:)