Rust preventative paint..

[chtucker]

The flatbed on the 5500 looks like crap, especially the underside. Rust will take it over unless I stop it. The hinge for the door to the goosneck ball froze shut...

Soooo I took the bed off today (8 bolts and 6 grinder wheels)... and took it to the sandblaster.

What should I paint it with when its done:

Zero Rust
Por 15
Regular auto paint
Herculiner

???? Don't want to have to do this again...

Thanks!

Howard

[T-Zab]

POR15 is some pretty tuff stuff. Its pricey but if you prep right its better then anything I have ever used. Its not UV friendly so you need to topcoat if it gets any sun. It has held up well so far.
Todd

[snowplowjay]

The various "spray on" bedliner companies can put down various types of finishes with their products. Maybe you should try out a smoother finish "spray on" coating (the lifetime warranty is always a nice thing to have)

But the surface of a bed is a tough thing to keep any type of paint/coating on (we sure do know that first hand)


Jay

[Garagekeeper]

That's a tough one to give an answer too. I would use yellow zincromate primer if you can find it or even Rust-Oleum's red primer. Stand the bed on end and give it a good coating this will allow the primer to try and run down and under all the cross channels, corners and joints once it has been blasted. A brush seem's to work best for the application to the underside. Then a good top coat of an equipment enamel which can be touched up easily as needed. If you can find a Ziebart dealer around have them spray steel framework a few weeks afterwards. That's about all you can do.
Or have it "hot dipped" galvanized after it's blasted and be thru messing with it for possibly forever.
:rolleyes: John...

[john mc]

i would go for the por 15 and the top coat

[cat320]

I would go to line-x or other dealer and see what they recomend for a base then just have them spray the liner stuff on you will never have to worrie about it again .

[T-Zab]

Jay how does the frame on Bills dump truck look ? You guys did Por15 on that right ? Any reports on how it has held up ?
Todd

[Ole JIM]

Thats a Hard Call! as in most Cases its a personal thing! I Dono? but to ME Nothings going to Last--that I know off?--here its been My experance that all heavy duty Bodies Flat Beds--Dumps--Trailers--Ect--where heavyer than Car body steel is what your trying to Protect! as I don*t really think? there is Any?? that will last for any length of years?--as in my years of dealing w/ HD bodies--other than washing the Cracks & Creviouses often & I don*t think what YOU Use will make all that much Differance?--as Steel Expands & Contracts Due to Tempatures--I Dono? of any PAINT that Will Stop this Process Permanently??--as Heavy Steel looks very Solid but is Really a very Pourous materail--like a SPONGE if Maginafyed Highly!--& in looking at Bad rusted Hd Steel--it Resembles a Pop Tart in its Destructive Form-- simply because its really being Destroyed from with IN! w/ lots of Layers & air holes--Example--YOU Go to WORK & Park You vehicle!--& the SUN does its Thing?--Heats UP what ever its Shining ON!-to Temps so HIGH you can*t Touch It--HOT!!--& all that Metal is Expannding!--under what ever Paint there is on IT?--& the Vehicle parts that are in the Shade! are in a Sligthly Contracted position-- & seeing Moisture is Present Every Where! & at all times! & Hi Temp Moisture really Penertrates!--STEAM!--& when Cooled --below 32 * Frezzes!--as in Winter YOU can See the re-inforcment areas on Your Frosted HOOD--& YOU start UP & that Frost changes to Liguid & finally Vapor & its GONE?--NOT really!! as it has allready done Its Thing! So Sand Blasting & PAINT may? slow Down the Process! of RUST!--but In Preventing iT Totally?--Sorry! never going to Happen!--so DO the BEST w/ what ever?--Ole JIM

[wfd44]

Zero Rust would be my choice. Its very easy to work with (easier than POR 15). Its also cheaper than POR 15. It can be rolled sprayed or brushed. Topside of the deck it should be topcaoted (esp if you want a glossy finish) but no need underneath. I did the dump body on my one ton with it (the only prep I did was pressure wash and wire wheel the heavy scale). It has set outside all through the monsoon season we had hear this spring and I challenge anyone to find a spot that rust has bled through and I didn't top coat any of it or use the prep powder (basically subjected it to the most minimal prep).

Disclaimer - I am a former Zero-Rust dealer (long story - not because of the product but due to my and my distributor's finances) and I can still obtain it for those that need/want it or connnect them with those that can supply it.

[Ole JIM]

Zero Rust would be my choice. Its very easy to work with (easier than POR 15). Its also cheaper than POR 15. It can be rolled sprayed or brushed. Topside of the deck it should be topcaoted (esp if you want a glossy finish) but no need underneath. I did the dump body on my one ton with it (the only prep I did was pressure wash and wire wheel the heavy scale). It has set outside all through the monsoon season we had hear this spring and I challenge anyone to find a spot that rust has bled through and I didn't top coat any of it or use the prep powder (basically subjected it to the most minimal prep).

Disclaimer - I am a former Zero-Rust dealer (long story - not because of the product but due to my and my distributor's finances) and I can still obtain it for those that need/want it or connnect them with those that can supply it.
wfd44--I have Read many articles on POR-15 --Zero Rust--the Pros & Cons!--but I don*t remember?? of using Ither?--& seeing Your from southernn Maine! do YOU remember a Paint called -In-Sel-X?--it came in a Yellow & Blue Can--I bought it many yrs Ago! at a Local Hardware Store Now Defunked!--they Sold Sheman Williams Paint! & Boat & Yacth Paint--the Reason I mention--In-SEL-X--is it was the Best I have ever Used!--I painted a Big outside PUMP yes Ago--Light GRAY!--& 20 yrs later I looked it Over?--still Nice & Shiny--& I rubbeed it w/ my Hand! still NO Chalky film--& it looked like it was painted a couple of weeks Ago??--I have a Hobby of Re-building Heavy Duty Equipment--& personally Not wanting to have to Order special Paints & have to Wait for the UPS man! to Deliver!--as Most Special Paints YOU have to BUY their other Stuff? to Go w/ it--a Real Pain in My Butt!--& I was Taught to Brush ON all the under neath Stuff--usually Two Coats!--I usually USE--Farm Equipment Paints--John Deere ECT--I read about POR-15--sounds to ME like a lot of Un-necassry work to Me?--& all those Specilty Paints are Expensive!--I have attended ONE Big RE-built Equipment Show! & I cracked UP! at most Paint Jobs!--as they looked like they Dipped the Entire Machine?--as I assume?? they Used?? --55 gallons??--very Thick & really Glossy!--I noticed One Chip--that looked 1/16 thick?--on an Ole Dozer!--I*M re-doing an Ole Kenworth 750 holmes Wrecker--the CAB & Chassis Nice but the Rear Body?--Sides!--I*M just Patching! as I plan On?? building a New Body for It! as soon?? as I find the $$??-- But--I*D like to TRY the Zero RUST!--as the John Deere paint I*M using NOW is Getting Expensive!--a Quart runs $20.00 odd Dollars--& don*t Go all that FAR!--as I like to keep my Shop equipment looking Good--& its Time to Re-paint every thing!--Jack Stands--jacks--Motor crane--Ramps--Bench & Compressor--before Winter!--RED--Yellow--Orange & Black are the Colors I usually Use!--as all my Protective Posts are getting pretty Shabby! in the Paint Dept!--I tried Fisher Plow Paint--too Expensive!--$8,00 a Rattle Can--& 3 Cans to DO One Plow!--just the Front Blade!--So If?? YOU! can Assist? I*D Appricate it--THANKS Ole JIM

[Grn Mtn]

I use por-15 on my landscape trailer and it is a great product, you do need to top-coat it though-I didn't because that would have involved reading the label:rolleyes: The spots that were total rust have no bleed-thru but the shinyness is all gone.

[Prosno]

Heres the scoop on por-15 if you sandblast the frame and get bare steel it sucks, why you might ask? Well I called the factory and talked to them and was told that por-15 needs rust to bond to so if you clean up the area good but leave a film of rust it works great cause I have done this. But if you get total bare steel it flakes off. I've done it both ways and see better results with no sandblasting. If surface is sandblasted I use rustolium and it works great lasts better than imron cause its a softer paint and wont chip nearly as easy.

[Snowboy]

Seeing as we are on the rust topic.

Whats up with that rust dissolving gel you can buy I believe its made by permatex or peranex same co that makes locktite and all the rvt gasket silicones.

You put it on wash it of and its suposed to disolve the rust it didnt do that for me and yet when i went to my auto store this week all of it was gone cuz it was on sale.

I've used por15 on my plow frame last year this time. Didnt top coat didnt care. I also have some harnose paint from them. That would work good.

Dave.

[denangme]

Try this Site: rust bullet.com, I bookmarked it from a ford truck site for the future, but haven't tried it.

[Alan]

Check out http://www.magnetpaints.com and look at the data on their "Chassis Saver" product. It has been on the frame of my 5500 since 1999 and most of it is still there. Only place it came off was where I applied it over mill scale on new steel I used for reinforcing plates over a frame weld. It came off in sheets, with the mill scale bonded to it, leaving bare metal. Where it was applied over blasted or rusted metal it is intact and there is virtually no evidence that there is more rust forming underneath.

[Pickering Snow]

We use Chassis Saver here has well it works good and hold up.

PS IF you Spray Zinc Chrom do yourself a favor make sure you have a good respirator. trust me