View Full Version : Can't get plow frame off...
hcr400ex
04-12-2006, 05:27 PM
Well not exactly the frame, but I'm not sure what you would call it. I drive a 1997 f-250HD with a meyers c-8 plow.
Well I thought I would take some stress off my truck and remove the front assembly?(where the lights and pump are, not the part welded to the frame) I just bought this truck before winter, but the paper work shows the plow came with the truck bought in December of 1996, so I guess it has never been removed. I had to use an air chisel to get the pins out of the front, a breaker bar to get the little bolts out, and I put a chain around the front part and attached the other end to a FULL dumpster we had at school. First I tried pulling back slowly, nothing, tried give it a little run and slam, nothing, put the truck in 4wd low and pulled the dumpster about 3 feet, STILL NOTHING! Now I dont want to hurt something on my truck, so I stopped. Has anyone expirenced this problem before? Should I just say forget it and leave it on all year? I was going to heat it up, but my teacher has to get his tanks filled up.
Pelican
04-12-2006, 06:35 PM
It will only get worse if you leave it on. I think you are talking about the "Pull away" mount. Spray penetrating oil everywhere you can. Front, rear, and in the holes the pins go through. Do this for a couple days. Then try again. I had to do this with my Diamond once. Make sure you hook the chain down low to the tabs that prevent the plow from going too high. Find a good sized tree and jerk it, don't get a whole lot of speed up, just little jerks and it will come out.
When you put it on next season, never seize the hell out of it. It will come out much easier.
Chuck Smith
04-13-2006, 12:36 AM
Actually, grease works better. I used the anti-seize on my brothers and it did no good at all. He took his off every year too. A strap around a telephone pole, and lots of tugs. Strap it down low like Pelican said.
~Chuck
Garagekeeper
04-13-2006, 05:34 AM
hcr400ex I would wait til your teacher gets his tanks filled before you go back to the dumpster.
As Chuck said you need to pull on the tube as straight and inline as you can,
sometimes welding a loop or tab where a chain or shackle can be attached to the lift assemble tube inline works very well to help you pull straight.
Heat both of the inner mounting tubes while you have forward tension on the lift assemble, and don't forget to make sure you have loosened the anti-rattle bolts on the bottom of frame mounted tubes if you have them.
Should you get the thing apart do as Chuck said, clean everything up and lube with a good water resistant grease.
Hope you get it apart. :rolleyes: John...
hcr400ex
04-13-2006, 09:36 AM
well I don't go back to school until the week after next so I guess I will spray it down as much as I can until then, he should have the tanks filled by then.
More good news, blew a seal or something on the bottom of the steering gear box where the pitman arm mounts up. I need to get a little car so I can get this thing off the road before more stuff goes wrong.
scfall
04-13-2006, 05:52 PM
I have the same issue with mine as does everyone else. I bought a dingle ball cylinder hone and hone the truckside nice and clean then fluidfilm the bejesus out ofit before installing and it helps.
Scott:burnout
hcr400ex
04-27-2006, 06:33 PM
I have come to the conclusion that it will never come off, without cutting it clean off. I sprayed it down for a week, went through 3 cans of PB Blaster, heated it up with 2 torches(one per side), and chained it to a Dodge Ram 3500 CUMMINS in 4LOW!!!!!! The only thing that got pulled off was my plow stops, which will have to get welded back on. I bottomed out my front suspension, but everything seems to be fine. I find it pretty damn amazeing that rust is stronger then welds...
... , a breaker bar to get the little bolts out, and ...
A thought I had reading this, is it possible that you actually broke those 2 little bolts off vs removing them completely?? Maybe they are actually still locked in there enough to hold it. Otherwise been there & done all that & you should have gotten it free by now. Unless it has rusted into one contiguous piece possibly, which I've seen some rusted stuff do, but never one of these frames (but I've only actually dealt with 3 or 4 of these over the years, so not much experience with the problem really). Once (err.. IF) you get it free, clean it up real good with a wire brush & some round files for the inside tubes & get some primer & paint on them. Then if you maintain them with some oil spray at the begining of the season & here & there throughout & everytime you remove & replace it, you'll never have this hassle again. I have to recommend Fluid Film for that maintenance oiling, based on the other stuff I have used it on so far this first season of my using it. Good luck!
cardoctor
04-30-2006, 08:26 AM
i had the same problem with a used mount i purchased. heat heat and more heat and a sledge hammer .
john
snow warrior
04-30-2006, 05:13 PM
Use a ROSEBUD tip on the torch heat it till its cherry red put tension on it with a fixed object and use a sledge hammer on both sides at the same time (obviously requires some help). when it starts to move and puts slack in the strap back the truck up .........eventually it will come out!!!!! Keep the torches handy cause you will need to keep it hot.
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