Aux. Fuse Box & Wiring [Archive] - Snowplowing-Contractors.com

JGresko

03-17-2006, 07:12 AM

Well since i thru the 2wd truck idea out the window when I found a 88 k1500 4x4 with a plow from my dads business partner I jumped on the offer,$2500 for a truck that is rust free and has a new v6 with 13,000 miles on it and a new trans with probly 85,000-100,000 miles on it. Just won't beable to get it till Easter.

Well I want to start getting a list together mostly to figure out price. I want to put a CB in the truck(Cobra Classic),Scanner(Uniden),and 2 4ft firstick whips(one for the CB & one for the Scanner). I want to mount two KC fog/driving lights in between the plow lights so when on the back roads up here when no one else is around i can flip them on and be sure i can see a moose befor eit jumps out. I am gonna build a Headache rack for and want to mount some kind of light bar on it for plowing,and also mount some Aux. lights point back and off to the side,and then 2 aux. backup lights under the bumper.

Now with all that stuff I wasnt to install and Aux. fuse box just for that stuff. Does anyone got a good site where I can find a aux. fuse box and all the wiring,switches,fuses,and anything else i need to do this. Also to hook up the aux. fuse box to i pull a jumper off the other one or run a new heavier wire from the batt.?

Thanks
Jeff

Snowboy

03-17-2006, 09:43 AM

Try these guys (http://www.painlesswiring.com/viewnews.asp)

for aftermarket parts. You could also go to a junk yard and rip out a small fuse block from a car? I just ordred one off ebay for all my aux stuff I have so many fuses and wires I want to clear it all up and hav it under 1 waterproof box instead of several waterproof ato fuse covers.

Check thsese guys out for your stuff.Rally Lights Susuehanna Motor Sports (http://www.rallylights.com/hella/Relay_Boxes_and_Fuse_Boxes.asp) I've bought from them before, but i prefer to look on Ebay 1st for better deals and use stores as a last resort. I use a guy from Georgia on ebay who sells stuff for hella.

$50.00 going rate.
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/hella%20images/62941.jpg
These start at $8 and go up to $30.
http://www.rallylights.com/hella/hella%20images/62936-8-40.jpg

http://www.rallylights.com/hella/hella%20images/62942.jpg

Dave.

Wizard

03-17-2006, 10:22 AM

First of all, a CB antenna wont work well for a scanner. You'll need an actual scanner antenna that's broadbanded for the frequencies you want to receive. If you're just trying to receive a particular set of frequencies for police/fire/etc., get an antenna tuned to that frequency. The other problem with the CB antenna for scanner idea is the interferance you'll get on the scanner every time you transmit on the CB.

It sounds like you want to run multiple different sets of light all switched separately. I would go with an auxilary switch box hooked directly to the battery through a circuit breaker. Most of the switch boxes have each outlet individually fused. Here's the one I have. (http://www.lshlights.net/catalog/federal_signal_switchbox_6_switches_2150595.htm) Your other option would be to have your own switches installed on the dash somewhere with individual ground wires going from each switch to individual relays under the hook. Then you have each accessory run off of the relays. This way is deffinitely more complex than a switch box, but would mean less wiring in the cab, and more under the hood. Whatever you do, make sure your wiring is neat so it's easier to fix things and add more later on.

B Clark

03-17-2006, 11:13 AM

Here you go.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=4402

Give me a call and talk to me directly and we will give you 10.0% off the list price.

Bob
262-317-1225 direct
Leave a message if you get my voice mail and I will call you back. This is our busiest time of the year and it is hard to get me sometimes.

JGresko

03-17-2006, 11:22 AM

JGresko

03-17-2006, 08:02 PM

Wizardsr,
Do you know if they mak ethey switch boxes with toggle switches instead of rockers? I would rather have toggles cause then I can put the toggle extensions on them for easy reach. I am gonna run a seperate switch for the fogs up front,a seperate switch for th back lights mounted on the headache rack,and switch for the lights under the bumper that can also turn on the factory back ups when ever I want. I found a light bar in Northern Tool today, its is a 47" Turbo Beam for $379.99 which would require one switch. So that would be 4 switches, I would liek to get a 6-7 switch one just incase I add something else or what not. The scanner & CB will be hard wired into the truck with a plug some where so I cant take them out if I have to(like to get the truck inspected ot something),so I will prolly use a little fuse box for them.

Turbo Beam light bar (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=436146&R=436146)

Jeff

Wizard

03-17-2006, 10:12 PM

All the ones I've seen have rockers, I can't say I've ever seen them with toggle switches. The other option you have is to custom make something. Get a project enclosure from radio shack and you can put whatever kind of switches you want in it, and use the fuse box setup the other guys have posted.

The turbo beam is a nice bar, I used to have a dual rotator 22 inch turbo beam. They're really bright. I have a Code3 420 with the fast rotators now that's brighter due to the high speed motors, but it's also a bit noisier than the turbo beam. Check out the Code3 intensity rotator bar also (also goes by model #XS8000). Used to have one of those too, they're really bright and they look darn good too... Nothing warms and mans heart like setting up a truck with a bunch of new toys! :grinz

EIB

03-18-2006, 04:39 AM

Painless wiring make all kinds of stuff like that. Gang switches, relay operated fuse boxes, etc. Go to their website and check it out. You could also go to Summit Racing's web site. They are a dealer for their Painless.

JGresko

03-18-2006, 04:41 AM

Thats what I will most likely do then. Just pick up a box from RS and get my toggles and make my own box, I will prolly order L.E.Ds to mount on right above each switch as an indicator light.
I look at that light bar to and see what i think.

EIB, We posted at the same time...I will look on there website and see what i can find.

Jeff

JGresko

03-18-2006, 11:13 AM

I was lookinh on the Painless website,I found some toggle switch boxes that will work for what I need. I had a question i was looking under their "Headlight wiring and acc" and it showed a wiring harness for fog lights/driving lights,the wiring harness included everything for it it has a relay in it. I was wondering what the realy does and if I need them when i hook up the lights? Also what kind of different relays are their? A question on toggle switches too. What is the difference between how many throws it has and how many poles?
IE: single pole/single throw.
single pole/single throw.
single pole/double throw.
double pole/single throw.
double pole/double throw.<What would be the differences between them? I knew like 2 years ago just have not been around it in awhile..

Thanks
Jeff

Alan

03-18-2006, 11:54 AM

A single throw switch has two positions, OFF-ON, a double throw has three, ON-OFF-ON and can control two circuits from a single supply if you only want one of them on at a time.

A single pole switch has one connection point for a single circuit, there will be two terminals, one for power in and one for the load. Double pole has two sets of terminals so you can switch two devices at once.

That's a pretty basic description, SPST (single pole single throw) will ahve two terminals, DPST will have four, SPDT (single pole double throw) has three and DPDT has six.

In addition there are momentary switches which are only on when you hold them in that position, those will be listed as OFF-(ON) if single pole. DT momentaries will be listed as either (ON)-OFF-(ON) or ON-OFF-(ON). The first is momentary both ways, the second is momentary one way.

There is also a DPDT that is ON-ON with no off position. The most common use for that is (was) on plow lights where you want either truck lights or plow lights on and never wnat them both to be off.

That's probably more than you wanted to know about switches.

Oh yeah, pretty much all the combinations are available in rocker or toggle configurations.

JGresko

03-18-2006, 12:07 PM

[QUOTE=Alan]
That's probably more than you wanted to know about switches.
QUOTE]

Nope that was good, It cleared thing up and as I was reading i started to remeber the stuff about them. Now the other thing, Relays, What do they do? & Do i need to use any for what I am wanting to do?\

Jeff

Alan

03-18-2006, 01:16 PM

In one context a relay is when you do it twice in one session.

For our purposes a relay is a switching device that allows you to switch a high current with a low current circuit. A prime example of that is a plow solenoid, a very small, probably under one amp, control current energizes a coil which pulls contacts together and switches a load of well over 100 amps.

Relays that we use are commonly a small cube, about the size of an ice cube, and can be SPST or SPDT. The usual 12 volt SPDT relay is also called a "changeover" relay. The contacts will be closed to one terminal when the relay is "off" and will change over to the other terminal when it is energized (on).

You can use relays located remote from the switch, eliminating high current wires inside a truck cab and either feed them 12 volts to energize them or you can take the ground wire to the switch and then to ground, feeding 12v+ to the trigger terminal. When the control switch is closed the trigger current will go to ground, closing the relay and switching the load on.

Relays will have (normally) four or five terminals. I don't remember the whole numbering sequence but a SPST usually has four, with one each for trigger current, battery feed, load and ground. An SPDT will have five, the trigger current, ground and battery feed, as well as one "normally closed" (87a) as a load terminal when the relay is off and a standard load (87) which becomes live when the relay is energized.

This diagram (http://www.snowplowing-contractors.com/alan_reverse_lights.html) shows how a relay can (should) be used to take the load of auxiliary backup lights off the contacts of the factory switch to prevent burning the switch up prematurely. In this case the relay is teamed with a SPDT switch to allow the lights to be manually controlled as well as automatically. It also uses the switch in a non-standard configuration. The switch has two power sources and switches them between a common output to power a single device, in this case a relay

JGresko

03-18-2006, 03:24 PM

Thanks Alan,
That helped alot, I am prolly gonna do the backup lights that I am mounting under the bumper like the diagram on the left is with the relay. I don't want to be reaching for the switch each time I shift into reverse and don't want them on all the time just incase some one come up behind me while plowing.
So iif I read about the relays right,I don't need any to hook up my fogs/driving,light bar,& aux. lights on rack, right? I am probly gonna buy a Painless 6 toggle switch box with circuit breaker for each switch,so all i should need to do is run a + & - to the switch box and branch of to the switches the run my powers from my switches out to my lights. Correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks
Jeff

Alan

03-18-2006, 04:07 PM

I'd be inclined to run anything that draws more than a very few amps through a relay. That way it's easy to run heavier wire to the lights and nice small wire into the cab for the switch. I've rewired my high beams to draw power from the battery through a short #14 wire and triggering the relay off the existing high beam wire. HUGE difference in light output! I've never done any ground side switching but I'm going to play with it the next time I do a project. Seems like it would be really easy to run one 20 gauge wire instead of 2 14s. By the way, relays and sockets are available for not much over a buck apiece if you shop for them. Like these,, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-PACK-30-40-AMP-RELAY-HARNESS-SPDT-12V-BOSCH-STYLE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46101QQitemZ80465 47294QQrdZ1

JGresko

03-18-2006, 04:22 PM

Thanks Alan,
It makes sence to run a smaller wire into the cab and evrything,don't have to worry about where your go run six good size wire at. I will prolly put a realy on all my lights then.

Thanks
Jeff

atgreene

03-19-2006, 06:17 AM

Korn, here's where I buy all my wiring stuff. They're great to buy from and ship fast. They have about anything you could possibly need. I'm not sure if you were the one who asked about the water tight boxes I used on my ghetto truck, but they have them.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/

shooter

03-19-2006, 08:41 AM

with that v6 engine, i'd look up you alternator to see what you have, and if it has the amps to power all your new stuff.

ps. run the cb radio power sererate from the rest

Wizard

03-19-2006, 09:29 AM

atgreene, Thanks! :waving A light freak's new favorite website... :rockon

JGresko

03-19-2006, 09:31 AM

with that v6 engine, i'd look up you alternator to see what you have, and if it has the amps to power all your new stuff.

I plan on seeing if he upgraded the Alt.,but if he did not then I will buying a bigger one. I shoul dnot be a problem with what is one it since i wont have all the lights on at one time.

Atgreene, Thanks a good website they have everything.
Jeff

atgreene

03-19-2006, 02:05 PM

Also, one of our new members here is from Freeport and runs D & B Fire Apparatus and Equipment. Great resource for some of these hard to find wiring gadgets. He's also a wiring genious. He has wired many a fire truck for me and is very helpful when it comes to questions and technical info. There is a pic over at my Topkick thread in CDL forums with the fuse holder he sold me.

Just curious, do you prefer the rotator style light bar? I myself prefer strobes and LEDs, as rotators draw a fair ammount of amperage. I wasn't sure if you prefered the rotators or just weren't sure about swapping to stobes.

That wiring site is great, I orders a few goodies today and will be seeing D & B this week for some loom and trinkets.

Good luck.

JGresko

03-19-2006, 02:33 PM

Just curious, do you prefer the rotator style light bar? I myself prefer strobes and LEDs, as rotators draw a fair ammount of amperage. I wasn't sure if you prefered the rotators or just weren't sure about swapping to stobes.

I like rotators cause of the ease of fixing them and that they are cheaper,but I might go woth strobes or L.E.Ds for the sak or the electrical system. I found out today that the truck has a set of ontop of rail tool boxes with ladder rack that he is not sure if he is selling with it or not. If they come with the truck i can still mount a headache bar to the truck,but i was think i can put 2 amber strobes on the back of the tool boxes. I am still trying to decide what i want to do about the light bar on top,if i just want to go with a rotator or go with strobes.

Jeff

Craig

03-26-2006, 10:22 AM

Korn,

Here are a few websites that have not been given to you. Hope their of help to you. Sounds like you have a project ahead of you. Good Luck, you enjoy the truck so much more after you put in alot of time and ewffort with fixing it to your needs and wants.

http://www.swps.com/11-1200.html

http://www.sirennet.com/whl32haf.html

http://www.awdirect.com/awdirect/

http://www.vlsusa.com/cgi-bin/vlsusa/index.html

Hope these help out alittle. The light switch box per wired that Wizard was telling about is $89.95 plus shipping from SWPS.net. The able is the same as Federal- federal makes the box and switches.

Good Luck and enjoy.

Craig:usa

JGresko

03-26-2006, 03:31 PM

Thanks for the sites Craig, I am checking them out now. Yes i do have a project ahead of me that will take time and money,but I can do it I am sure of that.

Thanks
Jef

JGresko

03-31-2006, 08:27 AM

Does anyone have any experience with this strobe kit http://www.vlsusa.com/cgi-bin/vlsusa/S690CCCC.html?id=U4CL4Thn?

If it is a good kit i was thinking get thge one with 2clear stobes/2color strobes,the clear ones can be installed in the plow turn signals and the amber ones installed in the rear back up lights. IF i would get that then i would end up buying a mini light bar for ontop of the rack then./

Thanks
Jeff

Wizard

03-31-2006, 10:28 AM

I used to have the same power supply. The whelen is one of the best power supplies out there, and has lots of patterns. If you're looking for something brighter and more attention getting, check out the Tomar Neobe set-ups. I have 8 Tomar Neobe hide-aways now, and after using the tomar supply, I would not go back to the Whelen. Word of warning, you're not going to want the fronts flashing with the plow on. They'll reflect off the plow and drive you nuts. I have LED's high up in the grille, and with those there's less flash back and it's more tollerable, plus, they're high enough up, that they don't reflect unless the plow is all the way up. Just make sure you install it with the fronts switched separately from the rear, so you can have the rears on, and not have the flashback off the plow.

Also, keep in mind that in many states it's illegal to alternately flashing strobes. In my state, it's only legal if it's Amber or Red in the rear, and Clear or Amber in the front, and they have to flash simultaneously. Not trying to deter you, just make sure you know your laws before you spend a bunch of hard-earned money on lights. Good luck!

JGresko

03-31-2006, 12:27 PM

Thanks I will check out the Tomars. Does anyone know of a site that has light laws for states or do I need to call or stop in at the State Police Barracks?

Thanks
Jeff

Rob

03-31-2006, 01:42 PM

Wizard,
What type of conenctions do you use to the battery? Did you simply run a bunch of wires to the battery and connect them via lugs or do you have a clamp that allows for multiple wire connections?

Thanks!

atgreene

03-31-2006, 03:13 PM

Wizard

03-31-2006, 03:16 PM

Rob, the F350 has a lug on the front of the fuse box under the hood where the large cable from the battery connects to it. For the lights/accessories, I connected an 8 gauge wire from that to a 40 amp circuit breaker (the kind with 2 lugs) on the firewall. Then ran all the wires for lighting and radios off of that (each item with individual fuses of course). The Amp for the Subwoofer, plow solenoid, and salt spreader is run directly off the battery (ring terminal on the battery connector). The other option you have (did this on my work van) is to get a marine terminal with a wing nut, and convert the factory wiring to a ring terminal (brass solder-on welding kind). This way to hook something up, just spin the wing nut off, connect the accessory, and tighten it back up. My next truck will have a 4 gauge cable run from the battery under the truck up into the rear of the cab, then everything will be connected via relays from there. This will eliminate the the wiring under the hood/dash for accessories, the mass of 10 & 12 guage wires through the fire wall, and be able to better isolate problems.

JGresko

03-31-2006, 03:26 PM

I recently read some where that stobes in rear taillights are now illegal for vehicles other than fire chiefs, ems chiefs and police, but not confirmed. I'll try to check and let you know. Not that anyone would probably bother you, but just a heads-up.

Do they mean in the taillights them self(like the red portion)? If i was gonna do it i was gonna get amber strobe tubes and mount them in the back up lights so it would flash amber. If it is illegal then I will just get a set of oval strob lights and mount them on the back on the bed rail toolboxes. If they are illegel i would guess they mean on-road,but, it problem would not be a problem if they were used in a private parking lot or drive. Aslong as they are turned off when going on the road. I am going to search around the internet and see if i can find anything.

Thanks
Jeff

Wizard

03-31-2006, 03:33 PM

I recently read some where that stobes in rear taillights are now illegal for vehicles other than fire chiefs, ems chiefs and police, but not confirmed. I'll try to check and let you know. Not that anyone would probably bother you, but just a heads-up.

Usually if you're plowing, they wont give you any trouble though... I've only been given grief when I stopped to help a friend that had been in an accident on the interstate (I happened to be real close). A state trooper told me to shut them off before he gave me a ticket. I protested, and he said they couldn't alternate. I switched a couple cables on the power supply so they flashed simultaneously, and he said good enough. He still didn't like it, but he knew it was technically legal. My current set-up has the taillight hide-aways alternate with the back-up light hide-aways, and I've never been bugged. I really only use the strobes when I'm backing out into a busy street though. Otherwise I just run the LED's, and some lots are so quiet overnight I don't use any lights. If you're on private property, there's really nothing the cops can say anyway... Our state law also specifically says (when stopped to represent a vehicular hazard), so if you get caught driving on the street with any warning lights on (rotators included), you're gonna get a ticket.

JGresko

03-31-2006, 03:39 PM

Usually if you're plowing, they wont give you any trouble though... I've only been given grief when I stopped to help a friend that had been in an accident on the interstate (I happened to be real close). A state trooper told me to shut them off before he gave me a ticket. I protested, and he said they couldn't alternate. I switched a couple cables on the power supply so they flashed simultaneously, and he said good enough. He still didn't like it, but he knew it was technically legal. .

This is going to sound dumb,but, What is the difference between the lights alternating and flashing simultaneously?

Thanks
Jeff

Wizard

03-31-2006, 03:52 PM

This is going to sound dumb,but, What is the difference between the lights alternating and flashing simultaneously?

Thanks
Jeff

Simultaneous = together. They're supposed to (in my state anyway) flash together, like your hazard lights. Alternating would be if the right side flashes, then the left side, then the right, left, etc. The way mine are, both taillights flash at the same time, then the back-up lights flash opposite, then back to the taillights etc.

When the trooper gave me trouble, I had the left taillight and the right rear window stobe flashing together, opposite the right taillight and left rear window stobe. Big no-no I guess... :rolleyes:

JGresko

03-31-2006, 04:02 PM

Thanks that is what i kinda thought just was not sure. In my search to find out laws i find a LEO site for cops,the have a forum where you can ask questions and stuff. I just registered and i have to wait for the admin to verify the account,when it is verified i am gonna post a question on the light laws and stuff.

Jeff

atgreene

04-01-2006, 05:06 AM

This is it. http://janus.state.me.us/legis/statutes/29-A/title29-Asec2054.html

29-A §2054. Emergency and auxiliary lights; sirens; privileges

B. Only a police vehicle may be equipped with a device that provides for alternate flashing of the vehicle's brake or rear directional lights and back-up lights or strobe lights behind the rear brake lenses. [1995, c. 247, §4 (amd).]

C. The use of amber lights on vehicles is governed by the following.
(1) A vehicle engaged in highway maintenance or in emergency rescue operations by civil defense and public safety agencies and a public utility emergency service vehicle may be equipped with auxiliary lights that emit an amber light.

(2) A wrecker must be equipped with a flashing light mounted on top of the vehicle in such a manner as to emit an amber light over a 360` angle. The light must be in use on a public way or a place where public traffic may reasonably be anticipated when servicing, freeing, loading, unloading or towing a vehicle.

(3) A vehicle engaged in snow removal or sanding operations on a public way must be equipped with and display at least 2 auxiliary lights mounted on the highest practical point on the vehicle and provide visible light coverage over a 360` range. The lights must emit an amber beam of light, be at least 6 inches in diameter and be equipped with blinking attachments. In lieu of the lights specified, a vehicle may be equipped with at least one auxiliary rotating flashing light having 4-inch sealed beams and showing amber beams of light over a 360` range or an amber strobe, or combination of strobes, that emits at a minimum a beam of 1,000,000 candlepower and provides visible light coverage over a 360` range. When the left wing of a plow is in operation and extends over the center of the road, an auxiliary light must show the extreme end of the left wing. That light may be attached to the vehicle so that the beam of light points at the left wing. The light illuminating the left wing may be controlled by a separate switch or by the regular lighting system and must be in operation at all times when the vehicle is used for plowing snow on public ways.

(4) A vehicle equipped and used for plowing snow on other than public ways may be equipped with an auxiliary rotary flashing light that must be mounted on top of the vehicle in such a manner as to emit an amber beam of light over a 360` angle, or an amber strobe, or combination of strobes, that emits at a minimum a beam of 50 candlepower and provides visible light coverage over a 360` range. The light may be in use on a public way only when the vehicle is entering the public way in the course of plowing private driveways and other off-highway locations.

Hope this helps.

JGresko

04-01-2006, 03:51 PM

I asked on the LEO site and all i got was to call the DMV,which if i am going to do that i might aswell just drive there and show and explain wait i want to do and how i want to use them. Atgreene, From what you posted above even though it says the can only be used on emergancy personal vechicals, I probly would not have a problem installing them as long as i would turn them on only when entering a drive or parking lot.

I just remembered about a week ago me and my dad took a trip down to Lincoln to pick up a pallet of V-Match lumber. On the way back up we passed a Chevy 3500 truck that look to be a contractor or something and he also had a plow rack on,the thing that caught my eye was he was on the side of the road and had strobes in his turn signals front & rear. So by seeing that i am guessing their is alot of loop holes for the strobe light issue, I will probly be better off going to the DMV and explaining what I want to use them for and ask when and when i can not have them on.

Thanks
Jeff

atgreene

04-01-2006, 04:21 PM

I can assure you that the dmv will look at you like you have two heads. They will then show you the same thing as above then ask "What are strobes?"

I doubt anyone will bother you for running them, I just wanted to make you aware before you spent the $$$.

Good luck.

JGresko

04-01-2006, 04:28 PM

:rolling Most likely true about the DMV. I doubt I would get bothered either has long as I am not cruising down the road with them on. All the warning lights get turned off anyway once on the road except maybe the four ways if it is realy bad. I would think the same rules apply here as they do for "ricers" with their underglow,strobes in weird places, etc. which is aslong as they are not driving down the road with them on, IIRC.

Jeff

JGresko

04-01-2006, 09:15 PM

Does anyone have experience with this light bar? If so how good does it work and how do you is it wired up with it haveing the work lights and all?
http://www.vlsusa.com/images/items/9mmedgepalg.jpg

Thanks
Jeff

wfd44

04-02-2006, 12:47 PM

JGresko

04-02-2006, 01:21 PM

Looks like a Whelen Mini Edge. Very nice mini bar if you happen to like strobes (I don't). Wiring would require individual switches (and probably relays) for each function (strobes, work lights, alley lights, take downs if equipped).

I don't have a problem with strobes or haveing individual switchs,I might as well get a strobe light bar since i am putting strobes in my turn signals & taillights. The work lights are the ones on the front right? the Alley lights are the ones on the side right? What are take down lights?

Thanks
Jeff

PSDFordMan

04-02-2006, 01:26 PM

Take downs are the flood/spot lights on the front of the lightbar.

Named appropriately.. since that's what the police to light your vehicle up when they do traffic stops.

JGresko

04-02-2006, 01:30 PM

Take downs are the flood/spot lights on the front of the lightbar.

Named appropriately.. since that's what the police to light your vehicle up when they do traffic stops.

Ok, So the alleys are on the side? and It would have them the work lights would be on the back or no?

Jeff

wfd44

04-02-2006, 04:17 PM

Sorry, my public safety sector lingo kicking in.

Yes, Alley lights are the two side facing halogens. They can be switched individually or together. Takedowns are white front facing halogens and work lights are white halogens facing the rear. If it only has one set of halogens to face either front or rear it depends on which way you face the bar whether they are takedowns or worklights.

I spec'ed out a real nice Whelen full size bar for a Fire Department pickup that had a plow on it. Its got takedowns, work lights, duplex alleys (split half alley half amber strobe), and falshes either red or amber or both 360 degrees. Covered us plowing or responding with one bar. Of course it was about a $2500 bar five years ago (at municipal bid price).

JGresko

04-02-2006, 05:57 PM

[QUOTE=wfd44]Sorry, my public safety sector lingo kicking in.

Yes, Alley lights are the two side facing halogens. They can be switched individually or together. Takedowns are white front facing halogens and work lights are white halogens facing the rear. If it only has one set of halogens to face either front or rear it depends on which way you face the bar whether they are takedowns or worklights.[QUOTE]

Thanks that clear alot of things up. I am probly going to end up buying that bar and using it with takedowns. That puts me at 6 switches for what i want to do so i will probly end up making my own box since i want to have atleast two extra switches.

Jeff

JGresko

04-05-2006, 04:12 PM

I just got my Painless Wiring book i ordered. I was looking thru it an came to the switch boxes,I started thinking about how many switches I will need. I will need a total of 8 working switches; 1 for the fogs,1 for the backups under the bumper,1 for the backup mounted on the headache bar,1 for the front strobes,1 for the rear strobes,1 for the strobes on the bar,1 for the alleys,1 for the takedown/work lights on the bar. They only switch boxes they make that are 8 switch an either fused or breaker are roll bar mounts,they are basically long stick boxes that are 3"hX10.75"wX3.125"d. Then they have switch kits that are non-fused or breaker and they have a 8 switch kit,to run that woould I then need to install a 10(1 for cb, 1 for scanner) fuse aux. box? Or would their be any easier way to do it?

Thanks
Jeff