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View Full Version : Jeep Cherokee belt tension


digger242j
02-14-2006, 06:48 PM
Once again, 1999 Cherokee, six cyl engine.

When the guy was replacing the heater core, he also said the serpentine belt needed replaced. Now, with a brand new belt, whenever the electric fan kicks on, the belt squeals (a lot!). It will also do it sometimes when turning at low speed (likely when the power steeing pump is working hard).

Is this due to not enough belt tension, which is due in turn, to a need to replace the tensioner, or is there something that the mechanic might've improperly adjusted/installed? We never noticed any such squealing before the belt was serviced.

Thanks again, in advance, for any advice...

festerw
02-15-2006, 02:36 AM
It's due to the belt tension, but the Cherokee's don't have an auto tensioner. You'll need to play with it to adjust it correctly or buy a tool to measure the tension.

Here's the FSM belt replacement pages.
http://www.dodgetrucks.org/gallery/data/500/medium/belt_1.jpg

http://www.dodgetrucks.org/gallery/data/500/medium/belt_2.jpg

http://www.dodgetrucks.org/gallery/data/500/medium/belt_3.jpg

digger242j
02-15-2006, 05:01 PM
Thanks, Fester! That's exactly what I needed to see.

What bothers me is that I stopped at the station, and told the owner what was going on. He turned to the mechanic that had done the job, and asked "Does that have a tensioner, or is it an adjustment?" The mechanic replied, "It has a tensioner." The owner turned back to me and said, "It needs a new tensioner. When do you want to drop it off?"

My wife says maybe the guy didn't know he had to adjust the tension correctly, but I'm not sure I'm not getting hosed... :mad:

festerw
02-16-2006, 03:52 AM
Well technically it has a tensioner, but it doesn't need replaced 1eye2 . You'll need a 15mm box end wrench to loosen the bolt on the idler pulley there isn't enough room to squeeze a ratchet between the pulley and the fan.

digger242j
02-17-2006, 11:26 AM
As it turns out, Fig. 53 is the most pertinant one to my vehicle.

Item (1) is the head of a long bolt, that draws the idler pully up, increasing tension. Item (2) is the head of the bolt that goes through the end of the idler pully. I don't even think I have a 15mm box wrench, but an 8" cresent wrench did just fine. Once I loosed that bolt a little, I turned the adjustment bolt about 1/4th of a turn each time, and kept starting the engine up to check for squealing. Once I got it to not squeal so much, I added about 1/8 of a turn each time, until I got no squeal at all. Then I added another 1/8 turn, and tightened the idler bolt back up.

My wife drove it to work today, so I'm sure if it isn't right, I'll be hearing more squealing... ;)

Thanks again.