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View Full Version : Chevy Has to much torque


76chevyman
12-16-2003, 02:31 PM
Well I live in Ct and the sunday storm i lost out, on my first account i snaped both front u-joints and shreaded the yokes on the front axle shafts. A $800 repair. And new u-joints were put in 2 weeks ago. I guess thats what i get for letting other people work on my truck ill post pics latter tonight. :burnout

sbrennan007
12-16-2003, 02:33 PM
What happened to cause those parts to break :confused:

76chevyman
12-16-2003, 02:37 PM
Well i should of told you i have a 1976 chevy and there are no cv-shafts , there axle shafts with u-joints, very strong set-up and i was real shocked to see the twisted metel under my truck.

cardoctor
12-16-2003, 02:50 PM
sounds like the joints were the wrong size or they were installed
wrong
john

76chevyman
12-16-2003, 03:16 PM
yeah thats the first thing i thought. I have to pay for someone else stupidity so this time im doing it myselfhers some pics

76chevyman
12-16-2003, 03:16 PM
and another

76chevyman
12-16-2003, 03:17 PM
and yet some more twited metel

wyldman
12-16-2003, 03:18 PM
Either they did something wrong,or something else is wrong.Bad ball joints or the spindle bearings will tear up u-joints pretty quick.

Are you sure they were greased ?

76chevyman
12-16-2003, 03:19 PM
last one. New shafts for all 4 will be aroung $800 when i can find them that is. They are pretty hard to find. The new ones will be chromes aircraft alloy

76chevyman
12-16-2003, 03:20 PM
I had to take the heat wrench to it because it was so twisted that it wouldnt fit through the hole .

76chevyman
12-16-2003, 03:22 PM
I let this guy replace the whole front end all new ball- joints tie rods steering box anything that moved on the front end was replaced and a total of 1300 was invested and now i have to invest in anothe 800 and thats just parts not counts my time to put in the new shafts

JCurtis
12-16-2003, 03:41 PM
:confused:

Are you sure he did the original work that you requested?

Something is definately not right ! He either didn't replace the parts, didn't replace them with the proper parts or he F**KED UP seriously and didn't properly tighten or grease things that should have been tightened or greased.

OR you Hit a MAJOR OBSTRUCTION !!!!


If he is reputable repair shop, there should be some sort of warranty on his work. If not Contact the State of Connecticut all repair shops have to be registered. File a complaint.

Big Nate's Plowing
12-16-2003, 04:44 PM
from the looks of it you made a sharp turn in 4wd on pavement

axle sources


http://www.polyperformance.com
www.footeaxle.com
www.warn.com

should be a dana 44 or 60, you can get some bling bling shafts for $300 a side and good joints and you will be set forever

it looks like 5-297 joints which are weaker then the 760 (I think)

make sure that you use spicer joints on the reinstall

and dont forget to fisit www.pirate4x4.com/forum and search for parts for cheap

Joey D
12-16-2003, 04:45 PM
What front axle do you have? Is it a dana 60?

Big Nate's Plowing
12-16-2003, 04:47 PM
from the pics it looks like a dana 44

76chevyman
12-16-2003, 05:14 PM
its a dana 44 and im having real trouble finding new inner and outer shafts i can find the inner but no outer and i really need to get this going before snow flys again i already lost one storm and i hand shoveled half my accounts to kept my customers happy any one that has a axle resourse please inform me.

Joey D
12-16-2003, 07:24 PM
I have a truck with a 10 bolt 8 lug front axle in it, not the same but close and will bolt in no problem, gears are 4.10 I think. If it were my truck I would swap in a dana 60. It will also bolt in and will handle more power and weight. Let me know if you want a Dana 60 as I can get you one, they are not cheap though.

mikegamb
12-16-2003, 07:33 PM
son i think its time for a new rig. 76 chevy thats pretty dam good that shes been runing this long.is it really worth it to fix in your eyes.my first truck when parts started becoming hard to find i traded up for something new just my 2 cents.

TJS
12-16-2003, 08:51 PM
People say that to me all the time to replace my truck. 85 k-10. Yes it requires a lot of work and fixing I do all myself. Had a cracked frame bla bla. Last storm on Sunday the heater core blew the nite before. So I was putting a heater core in it Sunday (day).
It still does not justify new truck payments and worring about scratching the paint on some bushes or something. My truck can do the same as a $40K truck. I say fix it 76. Check with Fleet pride in Milford on Naugatuck ave. They used to be CT. Driveshaft and I am sure they can help you unless you go mail order.
Good luck.
T.J.
www.tjsperformance.com

Big Nate's Plowing
12-16-2003, 11:06 PM
how many splines are the outer shafts? if they are 19 spline I have a source for brand new spicers for $50
www.jeffsbroncograveyard.com all ford-chevy and dodge stubshafts are the same, the fords have a clip groove though

call them with shaft legnths from your axle and see if they have any inners, they have a nice package(what was in my bronco) for $650ish with extra HD axles http://broncograveyard.com/products/cat/18/104/22038

slowzuki
12-17-2003, 04:17 AM
Get some 300M alloy shafts and CTM's for it! Check out www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ and go to general offroad

Searching for this and you will find gobs of info!

WoofsPlow
12-17-2003, 04:50 AM
If you have the patience, I say fix it. Trucks are trucks and scratches and dings are all part of the job. My 8 & 9 year old trucks are fine with me. Althogh I drool when I go to the Ford dealership with the wife to look at a new SUV for her. F250 - gotta love it. The new F150's are nice, anybody open close the tailgate on the new F150? Feels like it weighs about 3lbs.

chtucker
12-17-2003, 04:51 AM
That takes some energy to break both sides (unless you have a locker???) If one side broke, then you probably kept driving on it it. The first side did not break completely, the all the torque went to the other side.

A locker "might" allow both sides to be broken at once but that would take feet that had about 50lbs of lead in them.

I have "never" seen to both u-joints break rockcrawling (like you see in the magazines) without the operator knowing that they broke once and were going for the trophy.

You beat the "crap" outa of those axles shafts. Those parts are EASY to find. Call up Drivetrain direct or 4 wheel parts they are so common.

I would agree, specifically ask for the 760x joint and don't go to an autoparts store that doesn't sell name brand Dana.

Shafts should cost less than $400 and two U-joints should be about 22.50 a piece (non greasables are supposed to be a "little" stronger)

I guess rockcrawling it is easier to here the pop of a ujoint than when plowing. But I would be willing to bet that you broke one and hammered on the second.

Howard

chtucker
12-17-2003, 04:55 AM
.......I don't know chevys doh! I know the ford dana 44s from the 70s use a 260 joint which is weaker than the bigger 297/760.

When you buy new shafts make sure they will take the 760 joint

Howard

(always travels with 4 u-joints, complete inner and outer shafts for the jeep :D )

76chevyman
12-17-2003, 08:16 AM
Thanks for all the input guys. And by the way i am going to invest in this truck it is worth keeping i put in a brand new Gm crate engine 2 years ago with a edelbrock intake and carb and headers are going in in the spring the tranfer and tranny was completly rebuilt. So i say another 800 bucks is worth putting into it. This is the first time in 3 years this truck wasnt able to get me through a storm. If i had tire chains i would of plowed in 2 wheel. Even though all that let go the good old chevy still got me home and didnt leave me stranded . If chevy made a full front axle truck i would get a new one but im not to keen on IFS for plowing:burnout

Chuck Smith
12-17-2003, 02:16 PM
Howard, I snapped one side. The joint started making noise, and I tried to baby it for the rest of the storm. I was on my last driveway, and the last push when I "went for the trophy" and snapped the ears off both halves of the shaft. I dropped it in 2wd to see if I could limp home. About 50 yds up the road the truck turned left on its own, and I did a 180° in the middle of main st. at 2am no matter how hard I tried not to. I went right back to the driveway I plowed, and called a flat bed. Got a used shaft the next morning, and had the truck back that afternoon. Total cost was $120 (plus the tow) and I was ready for action again. That was a small price to pay to finish my route.

Like I said, I knew the joint was on its way out fast, and I still drove it, and hard too, that was the Blizard of 96, and I was moving a lot of snow. I thought when the joint snapped that the power would go to the other wheel, but I snapped the ears right off anyway :rolleyes:

~Chuck

76chevyman
12-17-2003, 02:44 PM
Chuck just like yours mine locked up and i couldnt go anywere then i decided to unlock my hubs and one good push they were free and i was able to drive home. Thank good they werent auto hubs or i would of had a tow charge to pay.:burnout

cardoctor
12-17-2003, 03:12 PM
i wonder if it wouldnt be cheaper to find a used rear

and steal the parts you need
john:cash :cash

76chevyman
12-17-2003, 03:23 PM
it would be good but there are no u-joints in the rear axle shaft there just a strait shaft

Alan
12-17-2003, 03:26 PM
I've used my trucks pretty heavy at times, used to slog around in the woods with chains on the front wheels of my 1210 IH pickup. I never broke anything that violently. Kinda makes me think that there is a way to avoid that sort of problem. It's called "the accelerator pedal" and it's located under your right foot. It WILL function without being stomped hard against the floorboards.

cardoctor
12-17-2003, 03:28 PM
let me rephrase that
wouldnt it be cheaper to get a used front diferential

theres a lot of old chevy in the junk yard
john

76chevyman
12-17-2003, 03:51 PM
I really never use the gas plowing because the truck is geared so low i dont need to , but the first storm a person pissed me of and i floored it it was a snow covered road, and the rest of the storm i hear a little grinding sound wicth i knew was a u-joint. But i was like they were just replaced. So i said as long as i get through the storm ill check it out. I mad it. THen when i was ready to look at it it was snowing again. And on the first drive it let go. imo i sat it wass do to the person that installed the u-joints put in the cheap autozone u-joint that cant handle the torque. And in turn let go. Driving from driveway to driveway im always in 2wheel and if i can plow in 2wheel i will so im not in 4wheel that much, and after the storm i drive to the storage place and park it and take my new car. So truck doesnt get abused to much. And i haul boats in the summer with it. And of course a few mud holes during mud season. But again this was a first for me. And the last time this guy touchs my truck.

76chevyman
12-17-2003, 03:53 PM
o and as far as a used front diff DANA 44s ussally arent to cheap. And i found new shafts for $260 aside inner and outter with the u-joint installed so $600 isnt tobad.

JohnnyU
12-17-2003, 04:14 PM
I went to a salvage yard today. There was a 1 ton srw sitting there, my guess would be late seventies(but could have been early 80's, the body was both rusty and dented beyond recognition) They other guy in the office asked about it, they said they'd let the D60 front go for $600. That would be the route to go, if you ask me, but you didn't


And I think IFS is just fine for plowing. I haven't seen too many carnage pictures from anyone running IFS or equivalent yet this year.....

76chevyman
12-17-2003, 05:34 PM
You live in IL. I live in Ct Fairfield county at that and if it cost you 600 they will go for a grand plus so for me it would be $800. For 26 years of use ( even though ive only had it for 3) I dont think its bad at $260 a side with u-joints and everything. If i was looking at 400 a side like in the begining i would of looked for a use diff. And dana 44 are a good front end. I have a 60 in the rear. and to tell you the truth i havent had to turn the wrench on this truck that much. Other then oil changes. :burnout

76chevyman
12-23-2003, 06:37 PM
I added this pics to the wrong post dont I feel blonde

76chevyman
12-23-2003, 06:38 PM
:headwall

76chevyman
12-23-2003, 06:38 PM
:grinz If i snap this i think I have a problem ANd may have to put a restriter plate on the carb.

Joey D
12-23-2003, 06:52 PM
Originally posted by Alan
I've used my trucks pretty heavy at times, used to slog around in the woods with chains on the front wheels of my 1210 IH pickup. I never broke anything that violently. Kinda makes me think that there is a way to avoid that sort of problem. It's called "the accelerator pedal" and it's located under your right foot. It WILL function without being stomped hard against the floorboards.

The pedal goes to the floor board for a reason, to put it there. He is not crying about the repair so why indicate he should learn how to drive?

76chevyman
12-24-2003, 08:36 AM
Thank you for your input Joey D. Considering this is the first thing I broke on this truck from being to hard on it. I say im doing good. Plus from the first storm we got i plowed and got my money and even with the repair Im still in the red, Its when you go in the black that im not happy.

Rich:burnout

cardoctor
12-24-2003, 09:37 AM
red means loss
black means profit$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

john:cash :cash :cash

76chevyman
12-24-2003, 10:04 AM
ANother blonde moment Thanks car doc

urethane dino
12-24-2003, 03:25 PM
A driver last season snapped the outer shaft on my 84 K 20 during the presidents day storm. We just added some weight and that truck kept plowing flat lots and did walks. What that caused tho was the axel shaft to slide in and out and it welded itself to the side gears on the front carrier. I needed a HD gear puller to get the two separted. Anyway I ahd a complete axel from another truck that I stole all the parts I needed from.
Anyway all it cost me was 4 hrs of my time and the cost of 2 new u joints.
I did find however that with the stock differential in front that once the joint broke, we ha no power up front. I dont know how you snapped both sides. I also found out that the joint was making alot of noise all season before it snapped, but the driver never said anything. We have to listen to our trucks.
Dino

76chevyman
12-24-2003, 05:33 PM
Well before those went I had someone else put new u-joints in so I thought it was alright. One day my truck was making a sqweiking sound and a real loud vibration sound. So when these went i thought that was it. I replaced them and tested it today. I still have the same two noises. So Im thinking the sqweiking sound is the fround drive shaft u-joints but the vibration sound got me stumped, It sounds like if you hold a tin can to something running. I can hear it rite off the floor board. I though it was a tranny mount because I snaped one last year. But that wasnt it all the motor mounts are good too. The exhaust is hitting the transfer case. But always have because Mineiki doesnt know how t orun duel exhaust. It only maks these sounds in 4 wheel drive. Any input whould be great thanks


Rich:burnout

urethane dino
12-24-2003, 06:25 PM
Most likely the cardigan joint in the front driveshaft. I had to do both of mine last year in the 84 and the 89 (old body style cab and chassis)
Dino

BWhite
12-24-2003, 08:00 PM
I know it always costs less to keep repairing the old truck . BUT there is something to be said for a new or newer truck and just keeping up with the maintenance