Disappointing U edge experience thus far

[Lawn Lad]

I installed three U edges on our Boss V's at the start of the season. I like certain attributes about the U edges, but I don't think I'm sold on them. Other than loosing two of the three snow catchers to being ripped off and having to ultimately replace both the catcher and the main hinge pin, we haven't had any real mechical problems.

For a 2500 HD with an 8'2" V for residential drives, we're going to switch back to steel. The U edge is just leaving too much snow in the drive and for back dragging we're not getting the snow up. The U edge does a nice job coating the surface making it tough to plow down to pavement. And yes, the edges have been worn in.

In commercial lots, on some occasions the U edge cleans nicely. But generally leaves a coating of slush or snow that disappears once we salt.

I like how quiet the urethane is and how how it doesn't beat up curbs. My blade doesn't trip as much either.

I've heard/read the hype and how happy everyone is with their blades. I think urethane definetly has its place, but I'm just wondering if its in our drives and parking lots. Am I doing something wrong? Why does everyone else think urethane is the next best thing? Just hoping someone will help to convince me to not switch back to steel wholesale.

[Snoworks]

Well, from what I have heard from others with V-blades, is that even with steal edges, is that they dont clean up all that well. Or as one friend put it, it leaves around a 1/4" to 1/2" under the edge.

When the plow is set down on the ground is the U-edge touching the pavement? Does it clean better in any particular possition(i.e.-scoop, straight, v, right or left angle)? I no I have heard of other guys replacing the center float(or whatever its called) to try and get the plow to scrape better.

Chuck B.

[jt5019]

I have a 8 foot fisher standard steel cutting edge it scrapes right to the pavement in most cases.I have had no problems at all except back bladeing.I dont even see a need to try a U edge at this point.

[sschario]

I am experiencing the exact same things, but on a straight blade. I am going to try cutting an angle in the base to get the leading edge on the ground. But if that doesn't fix it, it comes off.

Steve

[Honest Mike]

No U edge for me, Im perfectly happy with my loud 5/8" thick steel edge. :D I never used one, so Im not knocking it, but wouldnt give one a chance either. Im sure the guys who use them and swear by them mean it, but like I said in the other thread, I guess im just used to the old way of doing things. I got my solenoid control, my 11 year old truck, and my steel edge and Im as happy with them as a pig in poop, lol! :D I must take after my father, he hates change, and so do I. If Im totally happy with something, I will not try to alter it or change it, or even give something new a try, I guess thats a bad quality to have though. :confused: Mike :cool:

[TLS]

GEEZEEE!,

I hope I have better luck than LawnLad with U-Edges on a BOSS V.

I have TWO major reasons that I'm going with Uurethane.

1) As the BOSS V is designed, it cant physically trip in 90% of its positions. And 90% of the things I hit are under 1" in height. Hopefully the softness and flexability of Urethane will be more forgiving and slip up over the small obstructions.

2) I plow a few nice driveways. You know the ones, a nice concrete curb then the concrete apron then a nice paved driveway. During the Summer while mowing these lawns I see the damage a large, heavy V-Plow leaves. Big scrapes and gouges in the concrete apron and curbing, and often times scrapes driveway sealer right off any slightly higher pavement in the macadam. These customers never complain, but I KNOW they see this damage. A Urethane edge will ELIMINATE this!

There's also another big Estate I mow that I currently DON'T plow because of how perfect the paving is. I KNOW they would complain if I scraped up the pavement.


So, those are my reasons, and HOPEFULLY, when I get my Edges, installed, my CAST IRON center SHOE (Pre snow catcher BOSS)re-installed, and properly wear in the edge, (so that the leading edge hits before the trailing edge of the cutting edge) I would hope that it would work as advertised.

Clean scraping has never been a problem with my BOSS, but my 8' Meyer DOES almost Squeegie a lot compared to the BOSS. The BOSS just has more area on the ground, while the straight edges have it all on 5/8" strip 8' long.



Any other BOSS V Urethane edge users out there? I sure hope LawnLads experiences aren't the norm.

[Chuck Smith]

This is a little off topic, but I plowed a lot last year with a 9.5' Western V with steel edges. Side by side with an 8' Western straight plow with a steel edge. Hands down the straight plow scraped much better, no matter what I tried. I do not mean that the V didn't scrape up hard pack, just that the straight plow left less snow and ice on the surface.

The other thing I noticed is that the V plow left about as much on the surface as the 14' Pro Tech with a U edge on it. We were all working the same areas of a large lot.

Maybe Boss is different, but side by side, the straight plow scrapes better than the other 2 pieces.

~Chuck

[urethane dino]

v plows do not scrap as well as full trip straight plows, either u edge or steel

[Lawn Lad]

I look back at the other night of plowing and chuckle a little. I had to switch from my steel cutting edge blade to one with urethane on it mid storm. I tripped the Boss V and snapped the steel cutting edge. I thought I had torn the snow catcher off at first becasue I left a trail of snow in the middle of the blade, but as it turns out I broke the cutting edge. If I had been using urethane from the get go, I might not have tripped on the concrete apron at the street (1.5" concrete lip at edge of driveway apron).

I do believe that straight edges clean better than V's. I'm also thinking that steel cleans better than urethane. The urethane edges on my V's clear better in the straight blade position over the V position. Perhaps the combination of urethane on a V is just a bad combination. I can definetly see the application, for instance a cobble stone driveway we plow or other specialty pavement. But using urethane across the board on all plows may not be the best bet.

I'm hoping that there will be some supporters of urethane who might have some suggestions for me. I wish I had taken pictures of what some of the lots looked like after I plowed them with the urethane. Problem is that night time pictures don't come out very well.

[Snoworks]

Lawn lad - Just curious, what type of snow was it. If it was high in water content, and the temps were dropping fast, these conditions may have played a factor. We have had problems with our u-edges when similar factors occurred.

[urethane dino]

This last storm we had 5" of powder and then rain. Ended up with ash ptatoes to push around, the u edges squeegeed real nice. As soon as the rain started, the u edges cleaned up real nice real quick. I pushed side by side with an 8' meyer straight plow with a u edge vs my my 8.5' western v plow, and the meyer scraped alot better.

The last storm was 8" of mixed type of snow. Everybodies lots steel and u edges all looked the same.

Dino

[Joey D]

I have found the wetter the snow the better the U edge scrapes. The advantages far out weigh the disatvantage, and thats scraping ice. Otherwise it is a better edge.
I mounted my U Edge with a 1/2X6 cutting edge in front of it. I flipped the steel edge upside down so it doesn't cover the u edge as much. This has caused the U edge to compress slightly and just enough so that when the plow trips the U edge keeps it from flipping back giving the edge a strait up possition when plowing. It scrapes 100% better like that. The edge needs to break in again at that angle because it's chattering. I want to modify the flip edge now to keep this angle. Any concerns with this? I will move the mounts for the trip springs up so they are not compressed.

[bossplower]

I put a u edge on my 8.2 Boss v for the last snow 2" of wet snow should have done well under those conditions but i like my new 9.2 V with the steel edge better. I will see if it does any better next snow . If I new they didn't work well on a V plow I wouldn't have bought one. I like the forgiveness that comes with the U
edge at least I could see black top after plowing and they are easier on the truck. I think all equipment has + 's and -'s there is always a trade off .

Steve

[mikegamb]

well im not going to say anything good or bad about U edges.i like my steel blades and never saw a need to switch to a U edge.
i rather replace my steel edges every year for 100 than buy a U edge for 300.in 3 seasons i only replaced one blade edge do to it being a 6 year old plow.


if i don't see sparks coming from under my trucks than the job isn't getting done 100% :burnout lol

[Garagekeeper]

As Dino said most of the lots and drives we do look as good or better then those cleared with steel.
Having sold and installed polyurethane edges for more than a few years now would say that most of the plowers that have polyurethane edges on would not go back to steel.
I agree there has to be a better way to fill the void in the center on the vee plow to help with the scraping and clean up with less snow pass thru.
Sometimes you have to look at the trade offs as far as damage to the plow or the pavement..
So many times I'm asked if a poly edge is going to last longer then steel, well alot has to do with what type surfaces your plowing and how much you lay it into the curbs and corners.
Polyurethane edges aren't for everyone, and I think some are buying them because others are.
If you are looking to bid on those brick and custom pavers then you can service the account without steel contacting the surface and no worries of damaged curbs or pavement if you installed your edge properly.
In this area I hear all the time that some of the homeowners associations are requirering rubber or poly edges to even be allowed to bid.

[Lawn Lad]

I'm glad I tried the U edges. I switched one of the three trucks back to steel today, the 8'2 for residential plowing. I got several complaints that we weren't getting down to the pavement and the operator of the truck didn't like the urethane. Can't argue with that. For now I'll run two blades with the urethane to see how it goes and if it improves. I bought steel replacements and they're sitting in the garage if I decide to switch.

This has defintely been a learning lesson, and one that I think is worth explaining/defining. I am open to trying new things, always have been and probably always will be... it's just who I am. I think to be competitive you have to be willing to try new things so you can get an edge on your competition and offer a better service to your customers. We tried Magic Salt last year, I like it. I'm still using it. But I find it has it's place. It is NOT the next best thing to sliced bread or the second coming. I tried urethane edges on my plows this year. Mixed results thus far. For sure I think it's necessary on our ATV. I'll see on the straight edge blades if it's worthwhile. When we bought our Dingo five years ago or whenever it came out on the market, it was a great tool for certain applications.

The lesson I've learned here is that it's good to try new things. It's good to have exposure to new things on a site like this. You won't find this exchange of informaiton and ideas locally. I believe I have to try things more slowly. I'm a guy who jumps in head first and gives it my all. Perhaps one u edge would have been better than three or four. Perhaps a couple pallets of Magic would have been better than two semi loads.

For all of the hype I read and the praise that some heap upon certain things, I'll take it with a grain of salt. When I first read about V plows, I thought wow - I can't wait to try them. Last year I bought three and this year another. I don't regret buying them. Will I buy a Blizzard plow? The next plow truck we buy I'll probably try a Blizzard, I just won't buy three right away.

It's tough for me not to jump into new things head first. But I think I'm learning ever so slowly that it's okay to tread more softly with new things. For whatever it's worth I share my thoughts as a bit of a cautionary tale.

[Mark Oomkes]

Doug, IMO the thing you should try is a back blade (pull plow) They will out perform any plow for backdragging and save time.

What Chuck and Dino state is true, a straight plow will clean better than a v plow in any position. I noticed that right away when we switched to v plows 14 years ago.

We've had good results with the urethane on our Boss. It was not MPT and I don't remember what brand, but it did last two years and we now have an MPT urethane edge on it. I can just about say I will never go back to steel edges. The wear and tear on the plow and truck is enough for me to continue on with urethane. I've always said, if a customer wants bare pavement, then they need to pay for salting. I would never guarantee bare pavement with just plowing. (I won't with salting either, but it's a better bet.)

[BWhite]

The past weekend storm was my first with a U edge on my new X blade . We got 6"of snow then it proceeded to rain Heavily for 6 hours . THe snow was water filled concrete . Tough to push ( I actually felt I had to use 4LO and did . THe U edge worked great . There is much less vibration transmitted into the truck > THe squeegee action of the u edge scraped fine . Bare pavement no but it wasnt going to happen with a steel edge either . I did notice chattering on pavement at times ( Yes I did wear it in completely along the entire length - and thickness ) THe plow did trip more probably because of the weight of the snow . I wasnt worried about plowing on the new drives many of my customers had done during the summer . SO far I like it

[lawn and stump]

I bought a u-edge from Dino last year and I like it. I use a meyers
7.5 ft with pro wings. I plow 75 driveways mostly high end and can't afford to damage anything. I have to watch lawn sprinkler heads, Belgium block edging, sod lawns and pea stone driveways.
I can plow across a lawn without tearing it up. Great for those plowings with no frost in the ground. I wish it scraped a little cleaner but it's a great edge.

[Lawn Lad]

Here are a few pictures from my journey with U Edges. This is a U edge on a 9'2" V for our salter truck. This is the predrilled set from MPT that came precut with the angles. Good idea, because it made my life easy for installation. I just had to enlarge the holes to take the 5/8" carriage bolt.

[Lawn Lad]

The predrilled/cut sets come ready to install. They run the same height as the steel edges. Here is a side by side shot of a steel edge and U edge.

[Lawn Lad]

First time out with the U edges we lost two urethane catchers.

[Lawn Lad]

Upon closer inspection I found that the main bolt holding the shoe in place ripped off and broke in the center pin. I learned that easy outs don't pull the old bolt out. It's cheaper to buy a new center pin if your bolt breaks off then it is to try and remove it. The replacement center pin/hinge cost $25.00 ish.

[Lawn Lad]

Okay, so we tried U edges with the OEM catchers.

[Lawn Lad]

Here is a good reason to use Urethane... the steel edge snapped when I hit the concrete lip on an apron. This is on my new truck which had fewer than 15 hours of plowing on this edge. Never seen steel snap like this. It was a solid hit on the apron, but I didn't think it was that hard.

[Lawn Lad]

But then again, just as steel snaps I found that Urethane does too. This is off of the blue one ton dump salter truck first pictured. The outside driver side of the edge broke off right at where the steel edge and mulboard sandwhiched the urethane. I wonder if having the urethane hang below the mulboard just as the steel edge allows too much flexibility for the urethane!? The side by side picture of the urethane and steel shows how they sit at the same height.

[Lawn Lad]

So this is where my urethane edges are right now....

[Lawn Lad]

So now I'm back to steel edges for now. I will keep the urethane edges if I find I need them for future work that requries a softer edge (parking decks or specialty pavement). I just found that the U edges on V blades were not the solution for us. I do have two straight edges that we have not installed yet and I will try these before I make a verdict on urethane all together.

All in all, we lost three urethane catchers (I think they are too stiff and don't flex enough, hence they snap the bolts) and we broke/tore off the one urethane edge. They dont' scrap as I expected them to on hard pack. On slush they are absolutely great. But when I need them on lake effect snow to clean down to pavement, they just don't cut it.

So... now I'm back to steel!

[mikegamb]

Originally posted by Lawn Lad
So this is where my urethane edges are right now....


LMFAO

sorry just had to it was funny how he went in steps like that.

but hey i had bent steel edges and plow mold boards bend right up so not everything is perfect

[BWhite]

Lawn Lad
It looks to me like you need to mount the steel plate much lower to support the u edge. Its simple just to flip the steel edge up but I dont see it properly supporting the u edge . You should fabricate something out of a 3/8x 3 flat mild steel so its supporting level with the base angle .

[Lawn Lad]

I don't think the steel in front of the uedge would do much since the stress on the urethane is pushing the edge back. What I need is a steel plate mounted behind the urethane. Essentially what I need is a worn down existing edge, mount the urethane on top of the that old edge and then a retainer plate/washer/cutting edge on top of the urethane to sandwhich it in. Although you don't receive directions on ideal installation from the manufacturer, this is what I gathered I was supposed to do from all of the reading/information I had done prior to installation.

With straight blades you can set the height very easily by drilling the holes 1.5" from the bottom of the edge. With the U edge they have to match the height of the urethane with the center snow catcher. So either you redrill the urethane so you're 1.5" from the mulboard and cut the catcher down to match, or you install a rear backer plate to the urethane. Either way, on the V's it's a little extra work to make this work perhaps. Seeing as how I have not exhaused all possbilities, I can't say. I wonder if the urethane did have the backer edge if it would plow better. Perhaps the disappointing performance on the urethane was from too much flex since the urethane was set too high.

Bottom line is that we are all doing research and development for a product that is not market tested yet. Just a word to the wise.

[TLS]

I was told by Dino to simply KEEP my stock steel edges where they are. Put the Urethane edge over TOP of the worn steel edge, and use either large washers or 3/8" flat steel to retain the edge out front.

The backer apparently is needed more so on V's.

My edges just came UPS today, and only had a quick minute to check them out.


BEST PART>........

GET THIS>>.......


They're NOT gaudy YELLOW, they are a nice deep BLACK color!!!! :cool:

Cant wait.

May even try a piece of angle iron as a front retainer. The angle would be 1x3 and hold the TOP of the edge as well.

I'll have to see how things work out.

[BWhite]

I didnt know they came in black . Much better color match

[Lawn Lad]

When I flipped the steel edge to use it as the "washer", we cut the edge so it would fit when the plow was in the scoop position. I will at some point, when I have the time, have to go back and see about reinstalling the U edge with the old cutting edge as a backer plate. I'll have to set up a template to cut the steel edge with a torch. It seems to be the fastest and best way to cut the 1/2 steel edge. I'll make the backer plate even height off the ground so the urethane does not have an uneven backer behind it by just using the old warn edge.

[Pelican]

Originally posted elsewhere by urethane dino:

Looks to me like fisher and blizzard are using the same engineering team.
Should we add MPT to this list? I've seen another member's plow with an MPT edge in the same condition after one storm.


Originally posted elsewhere by urethane dino:


Cutting time of my route is of no benifit to me if my truck and plow wont last more than a storm
How about U edge?



Touche':greenange

Just stirrin' the pot!:wink

[Snoworks]

Lawn Lad

You have done a great job showing, and explaining to us all your issues at hand.

There is no question that the majority of the cracking, spliting and tearing, you have experienced with your U-edge, is due to too much flex. I am suprized that the U-edge manufacture designed the edge to sit so high up on V-plows. Especially when they recommend no more than 1 1/2" from a stright blades moldboard to the pavement, for standard applications.

I think adding the old V-blade edges to the back of the u-edge will solve all related problems. Come to think of it, this same tecknique would work on a straight blade. By doing this to a straight blade, you could get the stock angle of attack back! I have had problems in the past getting a U-edge equipped blade to scrape flush with the pavement at an angle, due to the drop moldboard height when switching a steel edge a to U-edge. This would eliminate adjusting truck frame mounting.

This is a great thread, with lots of info exchanging hands. One more reason why this site rocks! :rockon

Chuck B.

[Mark Oomkes]

I didn't want to say this at first, but we had an edge from MPT that lasted twenty minutes. Fortunately it was not during a storm, although we had a steel edge as a backup. MPT stood behind it 100%. Took it back and sent us a new one. They said the stiffener must not have been added.

We don't have much time on the new edge, but more than 20 minutes and so far it is not wearing at all.

But we have well over 100 hours on the MPT edge on our Daniel's with very little wear so far.

Same thing happened with v-plows when they came out, and look at them all over the place now.

[urethane dino]

I will admit that MPT has had issues with type 1 edges tearing especially from last season.
So what have they done.
1- they changed their formula for more cut tear resistance
2- they have honored all edges 100% under warranty no questions asked
3- I now recommend type 2 edges for all v plows, that is why TLS has black type 2

Now Pelican, if MPT and fisher were using the same engineering team the edges would have bent not torn
BTW, the member you speak of, if it was John D, then you failed to tell the rest of the story, which was we replaced type 1 edges with type 2 edges at 0 cost, repeat FREEBIE FREEBIE FREEBIE
With out a doubt I will and MPT will stand behind our product.
In fact I have an 8' edge on a subs truck that has torn on both sides, and that is a fisher 8' straight. Replacement edge is on its way to us. Now that said, I have yet to tear more than 2" corner off my v plows since I started running u edges, but we didnt install 02 edge from MPT.
Dino

[urethane dino]

Sorry I had to add a 2cd post since the 10 min edit limit had expired

4- as for center pieces on boss v plows, I dont sell then anymore. They just are not worth the agrevation. I have determined this after seeing all the issues customers have been having with them. The boss design is just bad from the start. That little tooth hanging down in a compromised position is not a good part to try reengineer. That being said we are trying to se if we can design a center piece for infront of the edges. Anyone willing to try some field R&D please give me a call.

I can still finish my route with a torn edge. I can stomach a
$ 400.00 hit on bad edges vs over 5000.00 for a bent plow and truck frame. Also the edge maker will stand behind the product 100% and replace the broken pieces, even if its driver error. I dont think any plow maker or truck maker will do that.In fact it very well may be that why the edge broke, may be what saves the plow and truck from being damaged.
Dino

[Big Nate's Plowing]

Originally posted by Mike 97 SS
I must take after my father, he hates change, and so do I. If Im totally happy with something, I will not try to alter it or change it, or even give something new a try, I guess thats a bad quality to have though. :confused: Mike :cool:

especially with plow hydraulic oil :shades ;)
Nate~

[Lawngodfather]

John's solving that center shoe problem with a Blizzard 810........

[Big Nate's Plowing]

LOL.... easy way out :grinz

[snowplowjay]

Originally posted by Lawngodfather
John's solving that center shoe problem with a Blizzard 810........

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm does that mean that Dino will need to solve his Blizzard, Fisher issue with a fleet of MEYERS then :-)



Jay

[Big Nate's Plowing]

atleast then the urethane will match http://www.nclsllc.com/images/smilies/laughing.gif ;)

[Gregg Blair]

There are so many different mounting methods with urethane it's tough, as a manufacturer, to recommend one method over another. Much of it depends on the application and the type of snow.

I don't know MPT's formulations, but it may be that the formulation of their type one blade is not the best for Joey D's local and the same may be true in Lawn Lad's experience.

As another point, urethane in the snowplowing application is not new. It is, atleast our product is, tested and has been used in airports and major cities for over 10 years. It may be new to many contractors and it's use may be new on different types of plows and just like with different environments, different plows may require different mounting.

This site should enable us as manufacturers, with input from you the end users, to better understand how the product works on different plows and in different applications. Keep the feedback coming and help us to be able to provide you with the best information we can. But, keep in mind that any results reported should include:
Type of plow
Type of snow
Temperature
Surface being plowed

It would also be helpful to include the width and thickness of the edge you are using.

Thanks.

[Chuck Smith]

Gregg, I think the weight of the plow has a lot to do with the whole equation too. These V plows are quite a bit heavier than the straight plows.

IMO, the center shoe on the Boss is a bad idea, period. Being out in the front at the point of the V, it is going to take the hardest hits of all. I think Western and Fisher were smart in the idea for the center wiper. It too can be a pain, but it is the lesser of the two evils. A wiper can flex, and an edge can flex. A shoe made out of urethane, or steel cannot flex, so the bolts shear off.

Look at most plows.... the shoes have at LEAST a 1" diameter mounting stem. Somehow, a center shoe is supposed to stay attached with 3/8" or even 1/2" bolts?

I think not....

And I applaud you for wanting to use input from a large spectrum of end users to improve your product, just as MPT has been doing for years. Now if we can get Boss, Western, Fisher, Meyer, and all the others to listen, our industry can get much better for us! (No jab intended as I know Western and Fisher are here, and listening!)

~Chuck

[Snoworks]

Lawn-lad are you going to try putting the old steel edge in back of the U-edge. I think this combo would settle alot of issues you have had.

Chuck B.:D

[Mike Nelson]

Well my guys just took off the last U edge on our new Blizzard 8611's. After only plowing one storm with this particular one, the wear was intense. 1" overall and up to 2" on the sides.
The drivers do not like them because of the chatter when you do clean up work.

We are keeping them on some of our Boss V's and on some of our 16' plows.

Funny how our 16' doesn't chatter one bit and the Blizzard will only chatter when it is extended.

I feel both products ( steel and U edges) have there place in the industry. Just depends on each of our needs.

I will try and get some pics of the cutting edges and post them.

Question for Lawn Lad: Are you now using them for weight in the back of your truck? LOL

[h_riderca]

Has anyone tried mounting a U edge on the Blizzard straight blade? I have a questions on mounting. Do you mount 1.5" below the current steel edge or 1.5" below bottom of plow? Do you sandwich the U edge between the plow and the steel edge? Thanks

[Lawn Lad]

My understanding is that you ant 1.5" of urethane below the mulboard and cutting edge. I suppose the front cutting edge or "washer" could hang lower than 1.5". More than 1.5" of overhang will mean the urethane will be too flexible and will not scrape adequately. Which is the problem I think I was having on the v blades.

Mount the urethane so it sits below the mulboard 1.5", and then use some type of steel edge or strip to act as a washer that will sandwhich the urethane between the mulboard and the "washer".

[Gregg Blair]

Lawn Lad is correct. You want to be about 1.5 inches below the mold board. The steel edge in front could be lower. That steel edge in front can be an old cutting edge, just make sure the edge pointing toward the plowing surface is the dull edge of the blade.

This is the standard method. If you are plowing in extreme conditions, you may need to alter it a bit. Let me know if you need more input.

[h_riderca]

thanks Lawn Lad and Gregg Blair

I just pick up a poly edge. Its black so it hould not look out of place on the Blizzard. Will have it installed on the weekend when there is no wind chill outside.

[Gregg Blair]

:nope

Peter,

I don't know if the icon fits, but I always wanted to use one of those. Anyway, be careful! If its black, it may be polyethylene and not polyurethane. What is usually discussed on this site is urethane. Urethane is more like rubber than plastic. Polyethylene is "plastic."

[Adams Plowing]

Originally posted by Gregg Blair
:nope

Peter,

I don't know if the icon fits, but I always wanted to use one of those. Anyway, be careful! If its black, it may be polyethylene and not polyurethane. What is usually discussed on this site is urethane. Urethane is more like rubber than plastic. Polyethylene is "plastic."

Why is it that they tend to only make the u-edges in yellow instead of making them either black so they wouldnt look out of place on any plow and or red for us red plow users i dunno if its just me but i think that the yellow edge kinda detracts from the looks of the plow now i know it can be said there made for plowing snow not for looks but as you know a professional look and equipment that looks good and apears to be in good shape definatly can play a part in sales although not as important as quality of work but none the less it makes the first impression on the customer.

[Gregg Blair]

:nodd - another chance for the smile!


Great thought!

I've been kicking colors around for about two years. Our edges, Polar Edges, are undyed, so they are basically a honey brown color. The edges we are making for Blizzard are black, and they look very impressive. We make Blaze orange edges for the Pittsburgh airport, they are pretty impressive on large municipal type trucks (blaze orange spinners too!) We've made red blades, in fact, we made one of an alternate material, and it's being tested by Got Grass.

Basically, we can make colors to match whatever you need. In our processes, the natural, red, black or yellow are typical and probably wouldn't cost much extra. Any other colors may cause additional for set up.

Jerre Heyer and I have an idea for a blade to display at the SIMA show this year. If I can get it done, you may be interested!

[h_riderca]

Gregg how can you tell is what I have is polyethylene or polyurethane? Is one more softer than the other?

[Gregg Blair]

Urethane is more like rubber. Polyethylene is like a board. I'm not sure how to explain it. Try this. If you dig your finger nail into it and it leaves a mark, it's probably polyethylene. If it recovers, and doesn't leave a mark, it's probably urethane.

[Gregg Blair]

Peter, it also occurs to me that this could by UHMW, which should look pretty similar to the polyethylene. Where did you buy it? From what I understand, urethane is tough to get in Canada. I'm working with a couple of people to set up a dealer, but nothing yet.

[BWhite]

I have a yellow U edge . They way I installed it on my X Blade using the black steel cutting edge, most of the U Edge is hidden it looks good . I will post some pics the next time I can take some .

[urethane dino]

The question of color always surprises me. Bottom line is it doesnt matter. During a stom the plow is going to white or slushy. Other than when plowing my plows sit in a yard waiting to be used again.
So my question is, do most of you guys really place that much importance on your plow looking like a show piece? I am just wondering not flaming.
That being said, all of MPTs type 2' s are black this year.
Dino

[Ohiosnow]

On a plow no but most things yes ;)

[Pelican]

I finally had an opportunity to take a shot of my edge today and wanted to share it with you. This truck sees street plowing, either asphalt or oil and 3/8 stone chip. I also used it to plow a subdivision I maintained with raised basins. These were rectangular cast iron basins raised 1 to 2" above the pavement, the final course of blacktop hadn't been laid yet.

Prior to my purchase of this edge from Superior Tire and Rubber, I was wearing out a steel edge per storm. The edge you see here has all of last season on it except the first storm, and the two storms this past December. I estimate 150 to 200 hours, or between 2000 and 3000 miles of plowing.

I've been pleased with the performace of the edge, it rivals that of the steel for scraping ability. All work I do is pretreated, so we don't usually encounter hardpack often. I have in a few cases seen some and have been pretty impressed with the ability to scrape nonetheless.

On the pretreated work, and wet snow, the poly edge actually scrapes cleaner, more like a squeegee and conforms to minor irregularities, leaving a clean surface. A light dusting with salt afterwards yields a wet and black surface.